Tube for Clutch cable in tunnel

Buggy Buddies to the Rescue! Breakdowns, repairs, construction, all things technical.
Gene-C
Posts: 2949
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2010 6:00 am

Post by Gene-C »

Hi Jim thanks for the diagram, it is clear what you would like to do but I know it would be a pain getting that new gusset over the old one and getting those screws in there being that its a tight area and a little far from the front opening..I know originally it is just tacked in there, but I think that's all it really needs, I mean its just a guide tube, its not like there is a lot of stress on it, I would think all the stress is on the cable itself. thx
CairoManx
Posts: 858
Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2011 5:00 am

Post by CairoManx »

[QUOTE="Bobby1"] I mean its just a guide tube, its not like there is a lot of stress on it, I would think all the stress is on the cable itself. thx[/QUOTE] You'd be right, if the cable had an absolutely straight shot between the pedal and the throw out lever. However, it isn't straight, it makes several bends. When you push the pedal the cable wants to straighten, however the guide tube takes up all the lateral force, keeping the cable in its correct route, so the pulling force at one end winds up as pulling force at the other. If the guide tube wasn't anchored, the whole thing would just move sideways and there would be no pull at the end. Bottom line, the force on the guide tube is equal to the force pulling on the throw out lever. All that being said, a couple of good small welds will hold the tube as long as what it attaches to doesn't flex.
Gene-C
Posts: 2949
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2010 6:00 am

Post by Gene-C »

Yea your right Cairomanx, now that I am thinking about it because it does have some bends. I tacked it in the back so now all I need to do is get in there to tac it in the front in a couple spots..because I did notice the tube move around a bit when I move the clutch pedal lever back and forth and that's even without having the cable attached to the tranny.. thanks.
shaihulud
Posts: 170
Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 9:00 pm

Post by shaihulud »

Be very careful about not bending the clutch tube too much when fitting it. I shortened a semi automatic pan to get the big disc brakes and ball joints on the front and the wider drum brakes and IRS in the rear. In Oz that's the only way to get that combination in one pan. The 1500 has smaller discs and drums. The clutch cable tube which was added when it was done for me has a slight kink in it and I cannot put the adjustable end of the cable down the tube. I need to cut it before I fit it. So, test that the cable will go down the tube easily before you weld it into place.
Gene-C
Posts: 2949
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2010 6:00 am

Post by Gene-C »

Yes I understand about not kinking it, I managed to get the chassis welded together without kinking any of the tubes, and I put grease on each cable before I slid them thru the tubes, thanks for the heads up.
Gene-C
Posts: 2949
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2010 6:00 am

Anchoring clutch tube

Post by Gene-C »

I sure want to thank everyone for their imput. I also had a friend whose idea is to drill about a 3/8'' hole where you want the end of the tube to be, in the tunnel @ the front and also towards the rear, after the shifter. Position the tube where you want it, foward or back and against the tunnel wall, then wire weld it through and filling in the holes It still is work in progress project, I'm not moving very fast as the old cable lasted for a long time. :x Jimbo
Gene-C
Posts: 2949
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2010 6:00 am

Post by Gene-C »

Might wanna think about brazing or silver soldering it thru the holes instead of wire feed. If you get too much penetration or blow a hole thru the tube, you're sunk. The cable will probably fray against the weld. Just a thought.....
Gene-C
Posts: 2949
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2010 6:00 am

Clutch Cable Problem

Post by Gene-C »

Well, after reading all the threads, and getting advice from others, I decided to cut a hole in the bottom of the pan to see what had happened. The clutch cable had cut or worn completly through the support bracket, at one point and started again in another spot. So We removed the remains of the bracket to let the cable run free and clear, there are now, no obstructions with the cable, through the tunnel. I am going to leave it like that unless any more problems crop up later. I will make a cover plate for my inspection hole and in the future, I will not have to remove the pedal assembly to change the clutch cable. Here are some photos of the work: Image Image Image This all happened, I think when the cable was removed and replaced it came up along the bottom of the tunnel, (no tube) and was rubbing against the bracket from the bottom to the top. Remember to keep your sunglasses on while driving in the sun! :driving: Jimbo
Gene-C
Posts: 2949
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2010 6:00 am

Post by Gene-C »

Here is one more photo showing the inside of the tunnel Image Jimbo
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