Was thinking about something like this? http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200311005&R=200311005Good Welding Machine
Good Welding Machine
Welp I am looking for a good welding machine. I was wondering what everyone is using as a general rule? I only need the machine for garage use on my Buggy. I welcome everyones opinion on which machine is good or bad to get. 
Was thinking about something like this? http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200311005&R=200311005
Was thinking about something like this? http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200311005&R=200311005I have been told that Clarke equipment is one of the most expensive - not the original purchase, but after the fact in replacement parts. They use off size wire and different threads on the tips than any other welder - and they are the only one that manufactures those products. I am in the same mode of trying to find the correct welder for the correct price. I ruled out Clarke when I discovered the proprietary nature of the products. I am presently attending a welding course at the local Vo-Tec School. The instructor has cautioned us not to purchase a 110 volt welder - the transformers will self destruct if you get into some high amp welding jobs. Just my 2 cents - and the $50 that I paid to learn.
If you have little welding experience look at a 120v mig. Hobart Handler, Lincoln SP series, etc. I had a 120v lincoln and beat the tar out of it years, I bought a newer Thermal Arc 220v machine and gave the Lincoln to my step dad for his shop. They weld thin sheat metal very well with .023 wire and 75/25 gas. Stay away from flux core wire and machines that are not capable of using sheilding gas. If you want something you can weld all metals with, go for a Lincoln Squarewave Tig/stick machine. They have good clean power from 0-175 amps. Pretty good on aluminum up to .250 too. I have a Thermo Arc 180 amp dc inverter that is smaller than a lunch bucket. I like it , but it is limited to steel alloys. Whatever you get, spend the $300 on a good quality electric helmet. You only get one set of eyes and melting them out of your skull with a cheap helmet is a bad idea. I have 3 Hornell brand Spediglass helmets and have not had flashburn with any of them. A good quality grinder is nice too. A good grind job can make a medium weld job look sweet.
I looked at the Clarke link, I would try to come up with about another $250 for something good. Try your local welding supply, sometimes they offer you a package that discounts the gas bottle, wire,etc. My supplier even gives you a weld workshop with purchase. They should also set up and demo any machine you ask them to. That way you can be sure it will weld the parts you have to work with. As far as a 120v machine holding up, I actually tried to blow up the Hobart and could not. The Clark claims a 20% duty cycle. I ran the Hobart 10 hour shifts stopping only long enough to reload the fixture. I was impressed, it had less down time that the Airco I had been using. Avoid anything made in China, and buy the best you can afford.
I have a 120v Lincoln mig welder and a 220v Lincoln mig welder. The 120v welder is a good portable welder but the 220v welder make much nicer welds at the same settings as the 120v welder. If I were to buy just one welder it would be the 220v welder. The just weld better. Stick with gas..stay away from fluxed wire.
I have a Cebora/Daytona Mig 135 110v. It works ok, but in no way compares with a friends 220v miller 210. I know that is apples and oranges. The arc on th 220 machine means business when you pull the trigger. I would go with one of the big names Miller or Lincoln. Everything I need for my Daytona Mig is proprietary. Luckily I don't live far from them, if I didn't I would have to mail order everything. Personally I think the Miller 175 would be a nice home unit and not a whole lot more than a 110v model. Try to step up and spend a little more. A good welder will last you the rest of your life. One last thought, the more you spend on a welder the more electronic arc stability and other things it has in it that make you look like a hero when you weld. :2cents:
I have the 220v hobart 175 and I love it. Like others have said, you must get the c25 gas for nice welds, and I prefer .023 wire for almost everything I do. The new hobart 180 is even nicer than my machine as the range on the low end has been dropped to 25 and the high end raised to 180. Another feature to look for is infinitely adjustable amp range instead of step range. My machine has about 4 or 5 heat ranges but it would be nicer to have and infinetly adjustable knob. I would stick with the Lincoln, Miller, or Hobart brands. I bet I have run at least 3 2lb spools of wire through my machine to build my car. Without my welding machine, my two 10 dollar 4 inch Harbor Freight angle grinders, my bench grinder, and a measuring tape, my car could not even been built. If I had to do it all over agian I would opt for the miller 180 machine. Oh yea, the auto darkening helmet is a must too!!! Plan to spend 900-1000 for the whole setup. MURZ
I have the top 115v miller welder at it works very well on thinner stuff. But when I try to use it to weld my roll cage I have to tack everything and then go somewhere else and use a 220v. So I would also suggests 220 if you can afford it and run 220 to you garage. I've even heard of people making huge extension cords to run from there laundry room or stove outlet to the garage. A little history of welder brands! So the 3 big names that everyone throws around are lincoln, miller, and Hobart. It turns out that Hobart is going to be the cheapest out of the three. But this is because the are a sub company of miller and don't have as nice of features. Like the infinitely adjustable wire feed and voltage. So I would stay away from them. The Lincolns are going to be a good machine as well. I personally don't like them as much as a miller. I don't remember why but i decided that miller was better. I think they were the same price but the miller was highly recommended over the lincoln and it came with a cart for about the same price. I think if you go to your local welding shops most of them will suggest getting a miller. You also have to think about gas. You should be able to get a tank from just about anywhere but if you get it from some locally owned and operated shop then you have to get it filled there and if you move you kinda hosed. So on this matter I would suggest getting your tank form a national chain. You can move across the country and still get your tank filled for the same price as where you leased it. Auto darkening helmets are nice but are just a personal preference. They do make welding easier when your first starting because you don't have to reach up and pull own your mask or flip it down with some sweet neck action. Any ways. I would just suggest going to the local prax-air or your nearest welding shop and go check them out. Talk to the sales guy and don't be afraid to ask any questions. Even if you think there stupid ones.
welders
I think you first have to decide how much money you are willing to spend. I have been through the 110v sears type and other wire feed welders and they will not do the jobs required for good welds in fabrication and repair on buggys. I was laughed at for some of the low end suggestions and finally saved enough money to get a "Millermatic 250" MIG welder. I found one used for around $800. :2cents: Jimbo
Whatever you end up getting, proper fit up, clean material, root prep, gas coverage,and not quenching your weld in cold water will make a difference. The 120v migs are rated for about .187" but if you fail to bevel the edges or put down a cold weld, or if the garage door is open and your gas blows away, your helper kitty knocks over your beer, etc..You may have a failure. Destructive testing on like material is the best thing unless you have access to an x-ray lab. The Miller /Lincoln argument is like the Ford / Chevy one if you ask me. I have had both , and I would prefer either one over a Yugo or a Hundai. If someone brought me a roll cage to weld that was all tacked together, I would tig weld it with stainless rod for not a lot of money. All the work is in the fit up and fabrication. And then trying to wedge it back into place from weld shrink. A 220v machine will cost less to run, uses the 30lb wire spools, and has more capacity. The 120v machines seem to actually work better on sheet metal > .125". ( but I never ran .023 wire in my "big migs" ) When I weld out doors or when am too lazy to grind off rust and paint I prefer stick welding with lots of amperage. There are all kinds of elctrodes that will bake through mud, grease, paint etc. that would fowl most mig proccesses.