Timing the engine...

General discussion area. A place to take a break and share your buggy world with others.
Montana-Manx
Posts: 31
Joined: Wed May 19, 2010 5:00 am

Condenser

Post by Montana-Manx »

Replace the condenser..........! and you have to replace the points because you have burned them with a bad condenser.
Montana-Manx
Posts: 31
Joined: Wed May 19, 2010 5:00 am

Condenser

Post by Montana-Manx »

[font=Comic Sans MS]CONDENSOR!!!!!!!!
167luckycharm
Posts: 52
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2005 9:00 pm

Post by 167luckycharm »

Hmm, where do I start? The distributor on the car has the CompuFire ignition module installed in it. There's no condensor needed with this unit. Both carbs have been cleaned, synchronised, and the linkage has been adjusted. New plugs installed with the same Accel 8mm Super Stock wires. I switched #1 with #2 just for the heck of it and the problem went away. Switched them back and the #1 had that same errant spark. I can't figure where it's coming from. A new fuel filter was installed and the German throw-out bearing was replaced when the engine was out. I could not find a replacement German bearing, but I did have a new USA-made version with a plastic housing available. Well, I started it up today after all my chores were done, and took it for a drive down the road. It ran a bit rough over the bumpy road in front of my house, but did much better on the smooth highway. The coughing went away after awhile (one mile later) but it felt like it was running on 3 cylinders. I decided to turn around and head for home when I realized I didn't have my cel-phone. Pulled over onto the shoulder and heard this howling sound when I pressed the clutch pedal. It's a new-old-stock (NOS) throw-out bearing, fresh from the original box, purchased in '86, that was stashed away all this time. Maybe it's supposed to sound like that when new? I have the Empi stamped steel version but it looks like it's too flimsy. None-the-less, I headed home after doing a U-turn, took it up to 60 on the one mile trip home, shut it off as I pulled off the highway, and coasted it down the street to my driveway. The mixture screws were adjusted 1 1/2 turns out prior to this run. Checked all four plugs and all but #3 were grayish with a little white. I noticed that the #3 wire was not fully seated onto the plug when I took it off...perhaps that's why it didn't "color" too well. I know I have to take it for a longer trip to get a better reading. First thing tomorrow I'm gonna head back to the open road...with the cel-phone this time. I guess I'll live with the noise of the throw-out bearing for now. I've adjusted the mixture screws out 1 3/4 turns and added another 1/8 turn more to see if I can get it a little more on the "fat" or rich side. Max advance has been set at 30 degrees. I'm running 7:1 compression ratio and just wondering if I should increase the degrees to 31 or 32 max. By the way, the ride height was adjusted several inches up at the rear suspension when the engine was out. It worked out just right. I was worried it would be too high or too stiff but it perfect. Thanks for the 4 star rating too! Aloha!
UncleBob
Posts: 151
Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2005 9:00 pm

Post by UncleBob »

[QUOTE="167luckycharm"] I switched #1 with #2 just for the heck of it and the problem went away. Switched them back and the #1 had that same errant spark. I can't figure where it's coming from. [/QUOTE] So, when you swapped #1 and #2 the errant spark went away? Did you check both wires with a timing light? Did you leave them swapped when you went on your test drive, or did you put them back in their original position? The throwout bearing should not howl. I wouldn't expect this to go away.
domorr
Posts: 42
Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2005 9:00 pm

Post by domorr »

you might want to try this. NGK recomends a b5hs plug for vw. The 6 heat range is a little colder. And your thread reach is a bit long. That is the E in the plug number.
newmanx59
Posts: 864
Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 9:00 pm

Post by newmanx59 »

Alot of the newer HP VW heads require 3/4" reach plugs which is the "E" in NGK's numbering scheme. I run B8ES NGK's in my Manx's 1914.
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