Manx SR2 Build
-
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2015 6:07 pm
Re: Manx SR2 Build
Every time I see a pic I shake my head at not bidding against you!
(We spoke about it at Buffalo....)
Keep us posted please!
(We spoke about it at Buffalo....)
Keep us posted please!
Rosemarie and Paul Hill
Morrisburg, Ontario
Canada
613 330 4862
Member #4502
Morrisburg, Ontario
Canada
613 330 4862
Member #4502
Re: Manx SR2 Build
Oscillating tool with scraper blade worked well removing tar insulation.
Looks like someone tried to butcher a hole in the tunnel with a dull butter knife. I'll open this up to have a look at all the tubes I hope not to cut.
Scribing some layout lines to shorten the tunnel.
At this point I am just cutting away the rusted floorboards. I have seen many people buy brand new floorboards, weld them in and then cut them in half when they shorten the chassis. I don't see the point in wasting hundreds of dollars here. Ultimately I will form up a couple outside rails out of square tubing and weld in sheet metal floors. I did this on my last buggy and it will be many, many times stronger then the "tin foil" they make aftermarket pans out of. Steel is cheap and labor is free..... as long as it's fun..
A few cut-off wheels in a disc grinder made easy work out of this.
Looks like someone tried to butcher a hole in the tunnel with a dull butter knife. I'll open this up to have a look at all the tubes I hope not to cut.
Scribing some layout lines to shorten the tunnel.
At this point I am just cutting away the rusted floorboards. I have seen many people buy brand new floorboards, weld them in and then cut them in half when they shorten the chassis. I don't see the point in wasting hundreds of dollars here. Ultimately I will form up a couple outside rails out of square tubing and weld in sheet metal floors. I did this on my last buggy and it will be many, many times stronger then the "tin foil" they make aftermarket pans out of. Steel is cheap and labor is free..... as long as it's fun..
A few cut-off wheels in a disc grinder made easy work out of this.
- jsturtlebuggy
- Posts: 652
- Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 5:00 am
Re: Manx SR2 Build
Looks like a great winter project you have. Always wanted a SR when I was younger.
Please don't compare all replacement floor pans as junk. Yes there are crap pans that everyone sell except for the Wolfsburg West one. They are the best. As thick as the original VW factory ones. I know this as I found it out myself. I bought the cheap ones that were suppose to be the good ones and found out how bad they were on my own buggy restoration. The Wolfsburg West ones have the factory stampings making them stronger then just flat sheet metal, plus they have the step down which helps lower the seating position. And they are lighter in weight then sheet metal. You don't have to add stiffeners to keep them from flexing. I have my seat tracks (aftermarket) mounted directly to the pans without any flexing problems.
The other thing I did to the pan halves was add 1-1/4in .065" wall square tubing in channel at pan edge. This helps with cars used off road and also made a place where I could attach my side pods.
Please don't compare all replacement floor pans as junk. Yes there are crap pans that everyone sell except for the Wolfsburg West one. They are the best. As thick as the original VW factory ones. I know this as I found it out myself. I bought the cheap ones that were suppose to be the good ones and found out how bad they were on my own buggy restoration. The Wolfsburg West ones have the factory stampings making them stronger then just flat sheet metal, plus they have the step down which helps lower the seating position. And they are lighter in weight then sheet metal. You don't have to add stiffeners to keep them from flexing. I have my seat tracks (aftermarket) mounted directly to the pans without any flexing problems.
The other thing I did to the pan halves was add 1-1/4in .065" wall square tubing in channel at pan edge. This helps with cars used off road and also made a place where I could attach my side pods.
Joseph
Manx Club #1095
Having fun with Buggies since 1970
Worked in VWs in shops since 1970
Manx Club #1095
Having fun with Buggies since 1970
Worked in VWs in shops since 1970
Manx SR2 Build
I have to completely disassemble the body to remove it from this old swingaxle pan. The bodysides wrap underneath the outside rail, preventing me from simply lifting it straight off.
All the bolts are rusty. They will be replaced with stainless steel on final assembly.
Had to drill out dozens of aluminum pop rivets to separate the body panels. It surprised me how the aluminum rivets oxidized over time. If I squeeze the backside with a pliers they crumble. They all will be replaced with stainless pop rivets.
Its hard to think of this as forward progress
The body side is a lot longer than it looked on the car.
Re: Manx SR2 Build
Thanks for those pictures. Never seen one stripped back like that. It looks really well designed. No surprise there!
Re: Manx SR2 Build
Now that you have the body almost completely taken apart, here's an idea. If you remove the canopy from the tub and make it a removable part with nuts and bolts around the engine bay plus some latches for inside the rear seat area, you can make the car configurable as an open roadster type or a coupe.
I've done that with my SR and as you can imagine, it's a fun and completely different driving experience either way.
I've done that with my SR and as you can imagine, it's a fun and completely different driving experience either way.
Re: Manx SR2 Build
That's a great idea. I would love to see some pictures of that. I, however, will probably leave the top as originally designed. I want this car to be a little warmer ride than my classic buggy with the option to close it up with the targa top if the weather goes south. I absolutely love my classic buggy and believe that a top does not belong on her.
Manx SR2 Build
Final pieces removed.
I am going to leave the dash panel installed. There is really no reason for me to remove it. I will, however, replace all the rusty screws with stainless fasteners.
I think I am finally at a turning point. It's time to start the cleanup and reassembly.
If anyone knows where I could find new rubber moldings for the doors as well as the rubber turn signal light mounts, please let me know. I can clean and reuse the old ones if I have to, but they are weathered a bit and new ones will make it look much nicer.
Door moldings, kind of an "h" cross section a couple of inches wide.
Front turn signal mounts.
I am going to leave the dash panel installed. There is really no reason for me to remove it. I will, however, replace all the rusty screws with stainless fasteners.
I think I am finally at a turning point. It's time to start the cleanup and reassembly.
If anyone knows where I could find new rubber moldings for the doors as well as the rubber turn signal light mounts, please let me know. I can clean and reuse the old ones if I have to, but they are weathered a bit and new ones will make it look much nicer.
Door moldings, kind of an "h" cross section a couple of inches wide.
Front turn signal mounts.
Manx SR2 Build
Last edited by MyManx on Sat Dec 12, 2015 10:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.