Tube for Clutch cable in tunnel

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Mon Jan 02, 2006 10:28 pm

Has anyone had any experience with no tube in the tunnel for a clutch cable?? It appears my buggy does not have one and there is a gusset, in the tunnel for anchoring one near the pedal ass'ly. and in the rear at the Bowden tube. This last week, the cable frayed and broke, rubbing against the gusset in front. There was an old slot where the cable had worn in before, in the gusset. I am being told to get one in there. I was thinking of cutting a hole in the bottom of the tunnel, in front to attach one end of the tube and snaking it throught to out the back?? I cannot find any diagrams of a factory set up. Any help or suggestions will be appreciated.

Jimbo

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Mon Jan 02, 2006 11:09 pm

Jim, It might be less work and a bit more reliable to go with a Hydraulic clutch since you have no tube to start with. Here is a documented hydraulic clutch installation... http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/album243

tgodber · Post by **tgodber** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 3:03 am

Have you seen this picture?

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 3:16 am

Hey Im just installing a clutch cable tube in my semi auto chassis for the build, have pic in the cam but have to finish the roll to develop and upload. I opened a window in the tunnel front pasanger side (oposite from the pedal assemply) so I can attach the clutch tube i will use. This is a 1/2 OD S/S tubbing shedule # 10, super nice, will eliminate the tunnel braket completely (the one behind th epedal assembly) and fab one 1"wx 2"tall braket for this tube inside, the original one has a bunch of slots taht are not used. The window will be covered by a access plate with screws for future inspection of the tunnel from the passenger side!

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 3:42 am

I have this picture....It might help as well.

CairoManx · Post by **CairoManx** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 3:43 am

If you're not going to weld closed the access hole in the tunnel, make sure the corners of the hole are round. Square corners will cause a stress riser and your tunnel will crack. It happened to me.

Tominator · Post by **Tominator** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 5:08 am

Jerry WOW !! Really nice cutaway tunnel demo .. Thank you for posting that . [QUOTE=newmanx59]I have this picture....It might help as well.

[/QUOTE]

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:53 pm

TIm and Jerry, Nice pics. Thanks for posting.

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 7:54 pm

I have seen 2-3 pans where guys have accessed the clutch cable assembly, by cutting a hole on the passenger side of the pan for access, and eventually that hole violated the integerity of the strength of the pan and cracked the tunnel, almost in two! So, no cutting on the tunnel!! The bottom is the only way in, safely. Anyway, Thanks a Lot for your input and photos. It gives me an idea what I am up against.

Jimbo

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 11:49 pm

You might gain some access by drilling out the spot welds on the piece of tin near the back of the tunnel. No picture handy, but it's the piece that the linkage inspection cover hooks into and supports the tubes where they exit out the back. The rear brake line also runs across it. Mine was barely hanging on when I got it. Removing it gives you a better shot into the tunnel from the back. Could you replace the clutch tube thru it? Maybe........ My clutch tube was busted when I bought the car. The tack weld in the gusset at the front was marginal from the factory and the support tab inside the tunnel cracked and broke. My pan is still in half, so it won't be quite as difficult to repair, but still no fun. Keep us posted.

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 3:13 am

I have a 69 bug with a hole on the side and it has been that way since 75. i still dont have any stress cracks... but i will weld a good strong bead around the hole for addad steel to keep it from ripping.

CairoManx · Post by **CairoManx** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 5:26 am

I don't think a bead would add strength and in fact the welding would likely harden the metal. I'd suggest you just keep an eye on it, but if you do decide to weld, you need to add a doubler.

CairoManx · Post by **CairoManx** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 5:37 am

Jim, Regarding your original question. I understand its common practice for racers to use Morse type cables for the clutch. These guys can make up any type cable with a flexible housing you want. It would just need to be solidly anchored at each end. You could probably secure its center in the tunnel with zip ties. http://www.push-pull.com/index.html

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:22 pm

Hi Jimbo, I need to do the same thing with cutting an access hole in the bottom of my tunnel to tach weld the tube to that plate slot in there that the clutch tube needs to attach to. So a hole in the side is not the way to go correct? From the bottom is the best way correct? and what diameter hole is big enough to get the welder in there? would 2" be ok? thanks

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 5:26 pm

I have my complete clutch tube lying on the shop floor. Looking at the weld where it fits into the front gusset, it wasn't much more than a couple tacks on either side. I'm attaching a crude drawing of what might be easier to fabricate and I don't think it would involve opening the tunnel. I think it could be done from the inspection opening in the front. The hardest part will be trying to get a couple screw holes drilled in the gusset, but maybe a self drilling screw on a long extension might get it. See what you think.......

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