Manx Club

OK, I've taken some of your advice and have been trying to do more work on my buggy by myself. My rear axle seal (which keeps leaking - another thread sometime) needed to be replaced. No problem I thought, I've got a Hayne's and Bentley manual that's all I'll need. Wrong. I've gotten the bearing cover off and was ready to pull the big spacer off (see in the picture - which isn't my buggy) and it won't move. I putting a small screw driver between the spacer and washer and tapped it gently with a rubber hammer, but nothing. I tried wrapping a rag around it and twisting is back and forth with a pair of channel locks. Nothing! I give up. How do you get the stupid thing off? Help! Bud

Bud, Try tapping the end of the axle in (toward the trans) with a good size dead blow mallet. Don't be afraid to hit it. The axle should slide into the bearing consequently dislodging the sleeve from the axle. Once the axle moves in you can pull the axle back out and the spacer "should" come off. Make sure the gasket surface of the flange you removed is flat before you reinstall it. Good luck.

Jerry, You are the MAN! That worked! It did push the wheel bearing out some also. Which I hope isn't a problem. I'm guessing that the bearing and all other parts will press back into place when the wheel hub is put back on. Correct? Thanks again, Bud

Yep, you can tap the bearing back into the housing. Glad to help.

Well, I've replaced the axle seal twice (countless times taken apart - I'm getting pretty quick now) and it leaks worse now than it did before I started. I've followed the instructions in the Haynes, Bentley, and this web site (http://www.vw-resource.com/index.html) and can't seem to get it to stop leaking. Is it possible that the axle seal isn't fitting into tightly (and it's leaking around it)? Anything else I can try? Thanks. Bud

I'll just throw out a couple things. * Are the drums torqued to specs? * Is the gasket surface of the flange that the seal presses into flat? * Is the gasket surface of the axle flange flat. * There are 3 different depth axle flanges. If the wrong depth flange is used, the gasket surfaces won't mate up. I have bought buggys that had 2 of the wrong flanges on it. * Are you replacing the gaskets behind the backing plate as well? * Is the seal surface of the sleeve (spacer) in good shape? That's all I got. It should work.

Jerry, You're up late Here's what I know or did: [QUOTE=newmanx59]I'll just throw out a couple things. * Are the drums torqued to specs? Yes, I torqued them to spec. I didn't put the drum on to test the leaking, only the seal cap. * Is the gasket surface of the flange that the seal presses into flat? I'm not really sure what you mean by the flange. Looking at the picture I posted, I believe the seal presses up against the wheel bearing. There is a channel in the seal which I believe is where the "balls" are in the bearing. The seal touches the outer edge of the bearing and the inner edge. Correct? * Is the gasket surface of the axle flange flat. Again, I'm not sure what you are calling the flange. They don't list that term in the manuals. * There are 3 different depth axle flanges. If the wrong depth flange is used, the gasket surfaces won't mate up. I have bought buggys that had 2 of the wrong flanges on it. Not sure about this one. * Are you replacing the gaskets behind the backing plate as well? Now this is a really good question. I pulled the backing plate away from the end of the axle tube and didn't see any left-overs from a previous gasket. There are two paper gaskets in the kit and when I took the old gaskets off there were two paper gaskets used between the seal cap and the backing plate. I got thinking that maybe one of the paper gaskets goes behind the backing plate and the end of the axle tube. Unfortunately that doesn't show in the diagram in Bentley or Haynes. * Is the seal surface of the sleeve (spacer) in good shape? It seems to be. That's all I got. It should work.[/QUOTE] I appreciate the advice. I've gone through two seal kits (I did crimp the inner seal edge in one of my attempts. The next time I put the spacer between the seal an in the cap before I put it on.) and at least 5 times taking the whole thing apart. I've gotten discouraged and put it all back together and will take it to my mechanics shop. I hate this. I really thought this was a simple job that I'd feel good about myself doing Thanks again, Bud

The axle flange I was referring to is actually called a "Bearing cover". Most of the time the gasket surface is actually bent and can be resurfaced on a flat table with a piece of sandpaper.

Jerry, Thanks for the clarification. I'm not sure about the correct one or not, but it has sealed it in the past (when I wasn't doing the work). I got thinking about something you asked me about torquing the hub. Is it possible that since I didn't put the hub back on to test the seal that there wasn't enough pressure on the seal to "seal"? It looks like the hub pushes against the outer spacer, which pushes against the seal and spacer. I was thinking that if the bearing cover wasn't providing enough pressure, the hub should. Does that make sense? Thanks, Bud

An inproperly torqued axle nut can/will allow gear oil to leak.

I also had problems with my axle seal when I did my initial assembly. I fixed mine this time by swapping transmissions, (for other reasons). Is there a right and wrong direction when installing the rubber seal? I think I pressed mine in with the cup part facing in towards the gearbox.

Rob, I don't have access to any picts right now, but my axle cap (flange) is back-loading. Meaning the seal pushes in from the axle side. It looks like yours loads from the front (similar to the picture in the Haynes manual). I believe the seals face the same direction regardless of the type of cap you have. I believe the opening/groove/cup faces the axle. As for the leaking problem I was having, my mechanic told me I didn't have the seal compressed far enough into the cap. He did replace the cap for me also since mine had some scratches/grooves from someone prying out the seal with a screwdriver or something similar. I haven't checked it in a few days, so I don't know if it's leaking or not right now. Bud