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E Brake cable in shortened pan
Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2005 5:36 am
by Gene-C
I am getting ready to shorten my VW pan. How do I solve the problem with the E-brake cabes and tubes ? Does anyone sell shortened cables for the E Brake or is there a way to use the stock E brake cable and tube work? Thanks in advance for any information.
Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2005 5:48 am
by allen pierce
Call California Push-Pull and get the info on how they shorten cables (you provide the measurement, if I remember correctly) and then either send them your old cables or a set of new cables (my preference as new cables are cheap). Here is their web site.
California Push-Pull Remember to CALL, as they are pretty darn slow on email (if ever). About a year ago the price was $10 each. Very professional job, friendly people, too! They can do your clutch and gas cables too (once again, buy and send them new ones, you want the best!). And, I doubled up on the clutch and gas cables for a spare of each (for either me or someone else that might need them when on the trail). I think shipping was only $10 and the spare cables didn't make any real difference in the weight of the box (doing spares later whould cause another shipping cost each way of about $10). You don't really need a spare of either E-Brake cable. When you cut the pan, be careful to not cut the tubes, they are often right next to the surface you are cutting. The tubes are most often attached to the front half on the now, cut in half pan, however you might have to break them free from the back half of the pan (do that carefully). Then when you put the two halves back together, carefully feed the tubes out the back, when you're all finished with the welding you can cut them to size. Pictures of the pan, full length, showing where and how much the tubes stick out is very helpful, as you might guess.
Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2005 5:51 am
by Gene-C
Thanks Allen for the quick reply.............
Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2005 5:54 am
by allen pierce
Read it again, I thought of some more stuff... You're welcome BTW.
Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2005 6:29 am
by shaihulud
Be very careful about how you fit the shortened tubes to the frame. I had my pan professionally shortened and the clutch tube has a kink in it so I can't feed the end through the tube. I need to cut the cable first to get it in. Also, you will find that yacht's chandlers will have cable end fitting as part of their services.
Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2005 2:05 pm
by newmanx59
The one thing I might add to Allens post would be to hold off on cutting the tubes until you can test fit the emergency brake cable housings in the chassis. I have seen a few buggys that had the tubes cut too short and consequently had to have a piece fabricated to complete the installation. Measure 4 times cut once.

Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2005 2:14 pm
by Gene-C
Im in the same process but my pan is auto stick, Ill install a stainless steel clutch feed tube and prob will replace the accell tube while Im at it with stainless as well. I have opted for the shortening kits for all the cables (accell, clutch, brakes) this will ensure I get it right and can adjust in the process. To install the clutch tube ill open up a window in the passenger side tunnel near the pedal assembly so I can weld the new clutch tube to its bracket inside! Fuel line will be a stainless steel braided in one piece from the tank to carbs, going thru the tunnel (I removed the old rigid steel fuel line) Youll see pics next week! Any one has pics of shift rods for the auto stick and the stick shift so I can compare and see if the one I have will work when shortened? thanks
Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2005 3:06 pm
by newmanx59
The guy I bought my shift rod from said it was from an "Auto stick" car. I looked like any other shift rod

I'm using it in my Manx now. Could be, he didn't know what he had?
Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2005 4:08 pm
by Gene-C
Anyone else knows of the diff in shift rods? Can I use my auto stick rod for the 4 speed conversion?
Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2005 4:24 pm
by Gene-C
The autostick rod is a tad shorter, at least it was in a friends ghia when he converted to a manual. In that conversion he had to use a modified coupler to make up the difference. Plan on using the adjustable kit that welds into the rearend of the rod to be on the safe side. With this kit you have to use the old style coupler, unless you do some mods to the kit itself. I think "Mr. Newmanx59" has some pics of how he did it. MURZ
Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2005 9:27 pm
by allen pierce
Jerry is right and I'd add that you may just want to wait until you get the trans and engine in place on the pan for measurement of the new-shortened cables (clutch & gas). It's a lot easier than guessing with a measuring tape by using your old cables, attached to the pedal assembly, thru the tubes, and to the exact location they need to be, then mark the old cables, pull them out and measure to get the exact length of your new shortened cables. I got lucky when I used the measuring tape on my first pan.
Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2005 5:23 pm
by Gene-C
Thanks everyone for the great information.............Happy Holidays to everyone...