Help!!!!! Hinge mounted hood
Help!!!!! Hinge mounted hood
Has anyone tried to install the hood on hinges bolted to the torsion housing mount bolts? The idea is to have the hood open forward along with the dash and have it supported on air shocks like those used on tail gates. I have figured out extended wiring and the steering support being independent from the dash, as well as locking rubber brakets to hold it down on the sides beneath the dash like those used on jeep hoods. Any ideas on the hinge? Photos?
So, you didn't get any ideas from your first post on this? http://www.meyersmanx.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3121
I would think the headlights would have to be relocated to clear a forward-hinging hood....either to the hood like on the original monocoque Manxes, or down by the beam. Plan on adding a lot of reinforcement to the hood as well, if you want it to keep its shape & not crack under its own weight when in the 'up' position. Honestly, I wouldn't do it. If you can do it, and it works well, kudos. 
I can't believe all of you guys are so negative about this! How about a little creativity in the buggy world. 
.....or smaller motorcycle headlights. This buggy is registered in Califronia and it has tiny lights. 
This shouldn't be a big problem considering all of the various headlights out there. Maybe something cool molded into the hood like this....I would think the headlights would have to be relocated to clear a forward-hinging hood
.....or smaller motorcycle headlights. This buggy is registered in Califronia and it has tiny lights. My clone hood is plenty strong enough to not crack apart just because its standing up. I'm sure no one will be driving down the road with the hood up. Fiberglass would have to be the easiest material out there to add some extra beef and support to if needed. So, how about a little encouragement.....Plan on adding a lot of reinforcement to the hood as well, if you want it to keep its shape & not crack under its own weight when in the 'up' position.
I've often toyed with the same idea. But I wouldn't have the dash as part of the hood. I know thats alot of glass work, but check out the manxter hood. alos go to a big truck dealer, check out how the trk hoods open. That may give you more ideas. the main thing to watch for will be the lower section of the hood where the plate goes. This will have to curl around the axle, plus clear any bumper when open. Lights ?? I never put light attached to ang fiberglass anyway. I have seem an old well used f/g buggy yet. The didn't have the fender light mounts tore up
mkparker - Since you singled me out as your example of negativity by quoting me, I felt the need to respond. Re-read my post, and you will see that I was not being negative at all....just sorta playing 'devil's advocate' while offering possible advice. I said the headlights might restrict forward movement of the hood, which was based solely on my personal experince removing the hood from my Manx last summer....the original Deitz lights had to be removed to get the hood off without harming the finish. I left out the idea of smaller lights, and I'm sorry for the oversight. I did offer the suggestion that the lights could be hood-mounted, like the original Manx, or down lower. Sounds like pretty positive stuff to me 
Saying the hood may need reinforcement wasn't negative at all....many clones have thinner fiberglass construction***, and reinforcement is a good thing for any opening panel if you ask an engineer. I also never suggested driving down the road with the hood up - where'd you pull that out of? That reaction sounded pretty negative from here. I also said to the original poster, 'if you can do it, and it works well, kudos to you.'('kudos' means congratulations) ***(sorry if I didn't consider yours being a well-made clone, but yours wasn't the buggy in question)
Saying the hood may need reinforcement wasn't negative at all....many clones have thinner fiberglass construction***, and reinforcement is a good thing for any opening panel if you ask an engineer. I also never suggested driving down the road with the hood up - where'd you pull that out of? That reaction sounded pretty negative from here. I also said to the original poster, 'if you can do it, and it works well, kudos to you.'('kudos' means congratulations) ***(sorry if I didn't consider yours being a well-made clone, but yours wasn't the buggy in question)[QUOTE="mkparker"]I can't believe all of you guys are so negative about this! How about a little creativity in the buggy world. This shouldn't be a big problem considering all of the various headlights out there. Maybe something cool molded into the hood like this.... [/QUOTE] **DISCLAIMER** The following is not a negative post; more like 'constructive criticism.' Hood-mounted headlights are a nice idea, yes....on a solid-mounted place like the one you pictured(I don't see an opening hood there - correct me if I'm wrong). If a hinged hood isn't rigid enough or solidly secured/latched while in the 'down' position, on the road those lights will dance like a part of the Soul Train stage set.
[/QUOTE] **DISCLAIMER** The following is not a negative post; more like 'constructive criticism.' Hood-mounted headlights are a nice idea, yes....on a solid-mounted place like the one you pictured(I don't see an opening hood there - correct me if I'm wrong). If a hinged hood isn't rigid enough or solidly secured/latched while in the 'down' position, on the road those lights will dance like a part of the Soul Train stage set.Sorry Dave, I didn't intend to single you out....you were just the most recent responder(thus easier to mis-quote). It just seemed most everyone jumped on the Alex and said "Don't do it, are ya crazy". I guess I felt kinda under attack also because I thought it was a cool idea. As fas as "my clone" goes, I was using it as a worst case example. It seems to be a copy of a copy of a copy, but the hood seems to be quite strong. I believe if we were standing in a garage having this discussion we would've been on the same page rather quickly. For all of its benefits, the 'net is somewhat hard to communicate subleties sometimes. I apologize for adding to the negativity. 
This hood is removable, however. Just not tilting. I think a couple of Dzus buttons would hold a Manx hood in place nicely. It worked well on my old Tow'd.
This hood is removable, however. Just not tilting. I think a couple of Dzus buttons would hold a Manx hood in place nicely. It worked well on my old Tow'd.Michael - No sweat; it is true that a lot is lost in translation here on the web. I missed the Dzus buttons on that buggy.....I must have been too dazzled by the metalwork to see them 
....those would indeed do the job nicely, if placed correctly, and the hood would be very easily removable with them there.
I missed the Dzus buttons on that buggy.....I must have been too dazzled by the metalwork to see them ....those would indeed do the job nicely, if placed correctly, and the hood would be very easily removable with them there.
After the barrage of fabrication/welding shows we've been handed over the past few years, I find myself looking more closely at formed metal products and welds.....even on amusement park rides, my wife & I both do it. 
I almost prefer that buggy in bare metal; paint hides a lot of the 'hand-hewn' look. My wife was with her mom one day about a month ago, and her mom's car broke down. They called AAA, and a spanky new roll-off truck came to assist them. Mom-in-law was raving later on about how cute the driver was, but all my wife could talk about was how nice the welds on the truck bed were. :rock:
I almost prefer that buggy in bare metal; paint hides a lot of the 'hand-hewn' look. My wife was with her mom one day about a month ago, and her mom's car broke down. They called AAA, and a spanky new roll-off truck came to assist them. Mom-in-law was raving later on about how cute the driver was, but all my wife could talk about was how nice the welds on the truck bed were. :rock:Ok since I have to doa lot of welding in my buggy proyect I have figured that a mig welder would save money. I wouldnt have to call a a welder 6 or 7 times to weld supports etc and take other parts to a shop for 20$ a weld. I want to buy a welder but dont know which amperage, saw some at home depot for under 300$ lincoln electric migs/wire feed but dont know. I plan to weld 1"x2" gate galvanized square tube for the side supports/gunnels were the body will be bolted all around and some other bracketry of 1/8 x 1" flat bar , along with welding the chasis back together after it is shortened. Any ideas on the amperage of the welder needed?