engine issues
I've had both irs and swing axle with bus trannies. If you don't want super high way speed a bus box is a good idea. Granted you shouldn't go above 75. You probably shouldn't even cruse that fast. I would say 65 or so is a good cruising speed with a bus box and 31" tires. I pushed to 80 once for about 5 minutes and started to smoke my rings. Also with my bus box and a 1835 w/dual 36mm delorto's I could at least keep up with a lot of the ricers in socal and easily beat all my friends in there cars. I have to admit it is rather gratifying, and you get style points if you shoot flames out of your pipes every time you shift. Even they think that's neat!
If you are a cheapskate like me, go with a 5 rib bus tranny. I run watercooled engines so over reving is not a concern. Last night I had my sand car out on a friends private 1/8 mile track, we took turns ( 4 of us ) doing 4 wheel drifts at redline and did wheelies up and down the paved driveway, then had doughnuts for desert. I would never beat up my glass buggy like that (it has a 3 rib bus) but it sure was fun. The dirt tires I have on it are those old farm implements and don't get enough bite to harm the transaxel. It will accelerate hard in all gears and will go so fast that your eyes water with goggles on. ( ludicrous speed) I don't have a speedo in it but I would guess 80ish? With the paddles on I can still get top speed in 3rd gear, and break axles if I hammer it like last night. My friends with the "cash hose " flowing use bus trannies and send them down to LA for the close ratio gears. But that is useless if your ring and pinion don't match your application. If you do get 4th gear the way you want on the street, don't be surprised when you are limited in the sand. My friend had his transaxel set for a 2300cc efi ranger motor then switched up to a turbo charged version. It will now pull wheelies without clutching in 4th gear. He said that with the turbo he wished he had a taller ring and pinion. I think it goes fast enough, but most people are affraid to ride with that guy...Try smaller tires and do the math. Or turn on the cash hose full blast, you only live once.
well i had the engine checked it is a 2275 well built. the carbs are the problem. shop does not have time to figure out right now. as it was a favor just to look at engine and remove a oil leak . I was in a 1915 n it was faster than mine.... that sucks. I am starting over on the carbs again... I sure hope i can get it figured out soon. i almost lost to a dodge dacota sp? with a v8 in it.I will hang my head low for now...
[QUOTE="UncleBob"]So, how did the shop verify it was a 2275? What makes them think that the carbs are the problem? Not suggesting carbs aren't the issue, just surprised. I can't wait 'till you get this worked out. It will be worth all the trouble.[/QUOTE] they pulled the head off. I did a bunch of changes the the setup today on the carbs. took it out and it went 0 to 60 in 5 sec. better than 8sec. I was so suprised at this . I did not even try to take off very fast. so i went to do it again pumped up the rpm. let the clutch go!!!!!! guess what hapend? blam!!! something in the nose of the trans snaped. I was able to drive it home with a lot of noise. It makes the noise while in nutrual with the clutch out . So much for a pro street trans... I hope it was a defective part. it didnt even burn the tires b4 it blew. seams like it should hold up or at least snap my stock axles.
how much to fix this. found out it was 1st gear that blew. I talked to the builder he said it is a stock gear just welded. and was built for 40 hp ... 40 hp!!??? is this strange??? it is a pro street trans.... for a 1600 sp.... this is standard i guess... he is willing to repair it . free. I asked him if we can build it up for more power and he said we can work out a deal. I am going to get close 3 and 4 gears. super strong 1 st and 2 nd gears. and what not . i will have to get new axles. the racing kind. i don't want to snap them next.... I guess no buggy for a while... I just sit and stare at it. silently.
but when i am done with it this time watch out :rock: I am thinking of adding rear disc brakes. what you think? read disc and drum fronts? i know some think fronts need the best. how about on the manx? I found out it does not stop super fast with 2 people going down hill. heck i cant even lock up the brakes.. 31'' tires.I'd add rear discs before front. I can easily lock up my front drum brakes now. Plus, it would be nice to have them in the rear if turning brakes are ever in your future. Of course, you could go discs all the way around and do proportioning valves, etc... What changes did you make in the carbs to knock of 3 seconds in your 0-60 time? You never did tell us. How was it in 4th, or did you even have a chance? I'm running a stock trans in front of mine, and I try not to drop the clutch (on the street) unless I take up the 'slack' in the tranny.
well I kept adjusting the float levels to find the correct spot. should be 11.5 mm but it was still running rich so I lowered it to 12.5mm adjusted the fuel pressure to 3.25 instead of 3.75 I had to grind the push rod down to get this. and then and only then did the correct jets work 55 140 200. I never made it to 4th gear. blew the trans before i made it.I will try to adjust the carb float level back to 11.5 when i get the trans redone. as it may work now that i lowered the fuel pressure. also i bought a are flow meter to adjust the carbs to sync them better and the carbs were not opening at the same rate. one was about 1/8'' faster than the other.
[QUOTE="WuZaBuG"]UncleBob, I have a '65 pan with drum brakes all the way around. I was told I couldnt put disc on the back and still use the cutting brakes... can you elaborate??? Thanks[/QUOTE] Why not? Expect to pay much more for the 5-lug Discs rather than the 4-lug swingaxle versions. If you don't mind having the 4-lug rear, the discs can be had for under $200. Cutting brakes don't work very good with drums, but I'll probably use the old-school cable operated ones that are already in my rail project.
[QUOTE="UncleBob"]Why not? Expect to pay much more for the 5-lug Discs rather than the 4-lug swingaxle versions. If you don't mind having the 4-lug rear, the discs can be had for under $200. Cutting brakes don't work very good with drums, but I'll probably use the old-school cable operated ones that are already in my rail project.[/QUOTE] Everyone I have talked with told me the standard emergency brake cables cant be used with disc brakes. Therefore cutting brakes are out of the question. I have the wide 5 pattern ans would be keepng it. (old school) but would like the better stopping power of disc brakes. Can you help me find what I need for the conversion?
[QUOTE="WuZaBuG"]Everyone I have talked with told me the standard emergency brake cables cant be used with disc brakes. Therefore cutting brakes are out of the question. I have the wide 5 pattern ans would be keepng it. (old school) but would like the better stopping power of disc brakes. Can you help me find what I need for the conversion?[/QUOTE] Well, yeah, I don't think the standard e-brake cables would work. But, several companies offer the 5-lug discs with e-brake and custom cables. They're pricy, though. I'd imagine you'd still need to shorten the cables for use in your buggy pan though. I've got a buddy that can do this if you need it. He also does custom shortened clutch cables, guaranteed for life. http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... C18%2D4640 So-Cal has the deluxe Wide-5 Discs with E-brake for $500. Not sure of the difference.
Here is a little VW drag racing tip to help you transaxle to live. Before you sidestep the clutch make sure you preload the trans. I usually hold the handbrake and leave out the clutch to the point that the rear of the buggy squats a bit then leave off the handbrake this takes up all the lash in the gears and dramatically increases the life of the trans. I have 3 official 1/4 mile passes on my Manx at a NHRA (sticky) dragstrip with my best time being a 12.51. This was done on a box stock 1965 swing axle trans with unknown mileage and I'm still driving it with no problems. This doesn't include all the times I have to defend my honor against some goof in a Mustang from a stop light. I honestly didn't expect it to last this long. 