Crankshaft rear seal & and a Crankshaft play question

[73SpeedBuggy]

I'm working on my first engine rebuild. I've got the crank and camshafts and all their associated bearings in place and I've got the two halves mated and torqued. I was just about to put on the crankshaft pulley when I realized that there's no seal at the rear of the crankshaft. There's just that concave washer (apparently called an oil slinger?). Is this correct or am I missing something? How does the oil not fly out of there if it's right? Second, I noticed (the crankshaft pulley, pistons/cylinders, etc. are not on yet) that I have about 1/8-1/4" back and forth play on the crankshaft. Is this normal at this stage of the game or is something wrong?

[newmanx59]

The oil slinger along with the reverse scroll cut in the pulley will "screw" the oil back into the engine.........No Seal. The crankshaft will have that much endplay until you set the endplay when you install the flywheel.

[73SpeedBuggy]

Awesome, I was kinda freaking out there for a bit. Thanks for confirming I"m not an idiot!

[TMc2548]

Buy John Muir's "Idiot" book if you haven't already done so. Also, there is an excellent book on rebuilding an air cooled engine called fittingly, "How to Rebuild Your Volkswagen Air-Cooled Engine" by Tom Wilson. No library would be complete without a VOA manual too. I hear the blue one is best. All were invaluable for me when I built my first VW engine last summer.

[73SpeedBuggy]

LOL Tom, love your subject line... I have been using Muir's manual as the basis of my rebuild backed up by a Hayne's manual. THe Muir book didn't specifically mention this, so I wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything.

[TMc2548]

Sounds like you're coming along nicely. I hope soon to read of your first start. It's scary and exhilarating at the same time. Turning the key and cranking up the RPMs is the hardest part. After that it's just cake.

[73SpeedBuggy]

[QUOTE="TMc2548"]Sounds like you're coming along nicely. I hope soon to read of your first start. It's scary and exhilarating at the same time. Turning the key and cranking up the RPMs is the hardest part. After that it's just cake.[/QUOTE] Yeah, I'm allready getting very nervous about that.

[MojaveMel]

73speedbuggy: I think I am nervous about every new engine I start. I'm amazed when they actually run. Did the thrust bearing fit in the case tight? It should have a slight interference fit or at least fit snug. There are a few different ways to set end play. Some guys measure before they put the cases together. To do it after torque the flywheel on the crank without the seal, but with three flat (not bent or slightly concave) thrust washers in place, and then measure the end play. You can use a dial indicator on a magnetic mount placed on the flywheel clutch surface and read it against the case. Push the flywheel in, zero the dial and pull the flywheel out or gently pry it out with two screwdrivers, one on each side. You want between .002 and .005 end play. If it's too little the thrust bearing can heat up and bind and spin. If too much the end play can hammer the thrust bearing and loosen it in the case. If it's over .005 you need to put together a combination of washers that bring it within spec. If under you'll need to reduce washer thickness on a trial and error basis til you get it right. Once it's within spec pull the flywheel, grease the washers and reinstall, install the seal, install the O-ring inside the flywheel lip and put a little grease on it, and torque the flywheel back on to spec. If you aren't sure how to do it get one of the books Tom suggests.

[manxdavid]

[QUOTE="73SpeedBuggy"] Second, I noticed (the crankshaft pulley, pistons/cylinders, etc. are not on yet) that I have about 1/8-1/4" back and forth play on the crankshaft. Is this normal at this stage of the game or is something wrong?[/QUOTE] Have you fitted the flywheel yet? If not this much free-play will be normal...