Manx Club

Just about to shorten a shift rod for one and guess it should be shortened by 14 1/2'',, can anyone confirm this please? (or is it 14 1/4''?) Will be using the scribed marks intended to cut out for the shifter (and handbrake) in the FG tunnel. Another quick one,,,, do any of you guys using these frames ever cover up the underside of the tunnel??. I've been thinking about making up an FG cover to stop all the dirt n stuff flying into the exposed control cable guides & shifter area,,,,,,,,, but don't think I'll bother if you guys find em OK running without covers.

As far as the shift rod is concerned, I shortened mine 14 1/2" and it works fine. I made a 3 pc. aluminum cover from .060 aluminum for the bottom of the entire frame that is held on with Dzus fasteners. It's just there to look pretty not for protection. The buggy will never see any offroading.

Thanks Jerry. The aluminum cover sounds nice

I site shortend mine - scribed and cut, then fit to please.. I have to say though - Yellermanx (Chuck) mentored me through this. (ok, ok, he did most of the work) I have welded 6 fastenal female brackets along the bottom (1 at each corner - 2 across from each other in middle) of the tunnel box and cut a stainless steel plate to fit just inside the bottom of the tunnel. (recessed aboout 1/16th of an inch) From the top of the tunnel (floorboard fiberglass removed) I marked through the female brackets to the plate. I then drilled the plate and inserted the fasteners. After setting the tension on the wire - they hold it very secure. I can then remove it quickly and easily if needed. You could do the same thing with nuts welded to a plate and then welded in. I came across these titainium fasteners for a little bit of nothing - they look good and work well.

[QUOTE="flaboyjim"]I site shortend mine - scribed and cut, then fit to please.. I have to say though - Yellermanx (Chuck) mentored me through this. (ok, ok, he did most of the work) I have welded 6 fastenal female brackets along the bottom (1 at each corner - 2 across from each other in middle) of the tunnel box and cut a stainless steel plate to fit just inside the bottom of the tunnel. (recessed aboout 1/16th of an inch) From the top of the tunnel (floorboard fiberglass removed) I marked through the female brackets to the plate. I then drilled the plate and inserted the fasteners. After setting the tension on the wire - they hold it very secure. I can then remove it quickly and easily if needed. You could do the same thing with nuts welded to a plate and then welded in. I came across these titainium fasteners for a little bit of nothing - they look good and work well.[/QUOTE] Thanks Jim,, think I might just make that cover. Whilst on the subject of Berrian frames. I've often wondered why they never made a second buggy mold with the floor & body incorporated (kind of monocoque) for use only with their frames, it would save time on FG trimming. The frame could even be glassed onto the tub for a quick/strong build up by the customer,, even side pods could be glassed on in the process,, it would float well too,, Mmmmmm Sorry, Im thinking aloud here, and been looking at far too many amphibious vehicles since our summer floods

Mel; Yellermanx1 wants to reply to your question but can't post here? Check out this link from DSB site. http://p068.ezboard.com/fdsbfrm2.showMe ... =346.topic