Getting close...

Olli · Post by **Olli** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 5:36 pm

I am getting very close to nearly being done. Almost

Later this week I should be able to pressure test the cooling system. After that I don't see why I couldn't go for first start. I still need to build an engine oil pre-luber though, I have a hard time with dry cranking a fresh engine. Olli

gary dam · Post by **gary dam** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 6:20 pm

Cool. Anymore pictures? I am still working on the pan. I did have to remove the brand new pans. They were held in by about 2 tack welds and a ton of seam filler. What a mess. Hope to get the new floors this week and have them put on. I also notice during all this that the ball joint front end is a replacement too. A Brazillian. Any thoughts on that? It doesn't look as strong or clean as the German on on my Manx. Thanks Gary and Annie

fubar · Post by **fubar** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 2:31 am

If you do not connect the coil and crank with the starter it shoul build oil pressure fine without damage to the bearing surfaces. Or spin motor with an impact wrench with plugs out?????

Olli · Post by **Olli** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 12:49 pm

Fubar, You just described "dry cranking".... A pressurized pre-luber is simple enough to put together, they are commonly used with Ford modular engines. Infact, Ford Racing sells them. Even the "old" pushrod Fords get pre-lubed prior to first start via spinning the oil pump with a drill. You would be suprised as to how long it really takes to get oil up to the heads. The Subaru has 4 camshafts that are quite some distance from the oil sump I will feel a whole lot better cranking the engine over knowing that there is oil everywhere. When I have the pre luber together I'll post a picture. Olli

TMc2548 · Post by **TMc2548** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 4:26 pm

If your engine was assembled properly and with enough assembly lube then the method fubar described is fine. I've built a few engines for Toyota customers and simply turned the key when I had all the parts on. When properly assembled the engine gets oil in the right places at the right times. I don't know much about Subi engines enough to be certain but cranking the engine at low, starting RPMs with little compression until the oil light or gauge shows pressure you will be fine. It's the higher running RPMs that can potentially harm the internals if run dry.

fubar · Post by **fubar** » Tue Mar 20, 2007 9:12 pm

When you do an oil change you will effectively "dry crank" the engine until the air purges through the system. Without assembly lube the drill motor method is not 100% either.

TMc2548 · Post by **TMc2548** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 12:20 am

The hardest thing to do is turn the key for the first time but once you've gotten past the fear and trepidation it gets real easy. What's the worst that can happen?