body repair help please

unclejtl · Post by **unclejtl** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 5:02 pm

[font=Verdana]Hi, [font=Verdana] I'm building a buggy and have got to the part of sanding the body and have run into a problem. It appears the previous owner has covered the entire top of the body with a layer of cloth and resin. When I try to sand, it just galls in the paper. A buddy at work says it's laminating resin, not finish resin. How do I smooth it out? Is there a certain paper/sander/chemical I can use? I know a new body would be easier, but I like this one. Any help would be appreciated. Jason

fubar · Post by **fubar** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 5:54 pm

First thing I would do is go to the library or inetrnet and read up on fiberglass. You might end up saving time, lungs, and even prevent a fire. Or clean a small area with acetone and brush over it with a thin layer of finishing resin. The laminating resin will not kick off in the presense of atmoshpere. There are a lot of variables with resin and how it catalyzes, mostly temperture. But you want to get fresh stuff kind of like milk, it is better fresh. Do you have a Tap Plastics near by? Or a real good marine supply?

manxdavid · Post by **manxdavid** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 6:25 pm

I know it's probably of no help to you buy I would never again consider fixing up an old body when nice new gel-coat finished ones are so inexpensive. When you do the math and work out the man-hours involved in fixing up the old shell plus the cost of a half-decent paint job these days then in my opinion the two just don't add up, unless the body concerned is a really sought after one... Just my :2cents: of course...

unclejtl · Post by **unclejtl** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:18 pm

Thanks fubar, guess i'll head to the book store. hoping someone had all ready gomne thru this. manxdavid, there isn't a new body out there as thick as this one. I have gone the new body route before, and yes, it is easier. I believe this is an early manx, although bruce and winnie said without seeing it , it wasn't. It has been modified at the spare tire well and the small hump for the rear lisc has been cut out, so they can't be sure. I think it's the same body as bill schusters. same lip on rear apron, same windshield. it came with a abs dash with the frenched in fuse panel. it's very thick, has the tubes glassed in under the fenders. you can go here and check out the pictures, http://s89.photobucket.com/albums/k212/unclejtl/?sc=1&multi=15&addtype=local&media=image maybe it's not, but if it is, it's worth saving jason

CairoManx · Post by **CairoManx** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:53 am

Have you tried just lacquer thinner or acetone and a rag to get it off? Soda blasting can get an old coat of paint off fiberglass but I kind of doubt it'd move that. Another approach is to shoot over it with a heavy coat of high solid epoxy primer and then work on sanding the primer smooth. It looks close to an early Manx but that short spare tire well looks like it came out of the mold that way.

mel hubbard · Post by **mel hubbard** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:05 am

I would say get it all off what ever it takes and take it down to the original gel-coat. Acetone is the thing I would use but you can get hold of stuff like resinkleen which is formulated for the GRP industry as a hard working hand cleaner,,, it dissolves the contaminant which can be rinsed off with water. Another way is to get it bead blasted down to the gel, then spray it with a polyester high build paint like Reface by Upol,, or better still Crystic Primecoat by Scott Bader. I know you guys have similar stuff sold by Select Products. Some tips that may help------ ''Top Coat'' or ''Flow Coat'' is like a finnish coat you put on the underside (rough side) of a Boat, Buggy etc. Top coat is gel coat that has a Wax Solution mixed in which when cured makes it dry to the touch, unlike gel coat which will stay tacky,, ie you would not lay up glass on a (untreated) flow-coated finish as it would not bond. Some laminating (lay up) resins also stay tacky to the touch like isophthalc resin etc & some cure dry to the touch,,, but the tackiness will go in time. Its just the surface that stays tacky to allow the next coat to bond,, rub the first bit off and it should be dry to the touch under that. Like Dave said,, ''do the maths'' it is a lot of work,, but I guess if its a rare eary Manx, then I can see your point. If I could find a Monocoque Manx in a 1000 bits I would do the same for SURE

As for the thickness (weight) of your buggy,, you can make any buggy thicker by laying up more GRP on the (treated) underside,,, maybe when you get all that old cloth n resin off it wont be so thick :help: The only other thing I can suggest is to talk to Bruce nicely & ask him what he did with the old Siggy Molds,,, If he says OK,, order some resin, mat n Gel coat & get me a ticket out of the UK,, I could do with a warmer climate for a few days :drinking:

manxdavid · Post by **manxdavid** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 6:09 pm

Listen to what Mel says....He Da Man!!! As far as it being an early floorpan Manx I must agree, it ticks all the boxes for me but it was the ABS dash that swung it. I've never come across a clone with one of those, only ones with glass fiber ones.

mel hubbard · Post by **mel hubbard** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 8:47 pm

I can't belive I typed that novel out last night as I sat down supping the left over Whisky from my (23rd Nov) birthday. Bit of wrong info,, after getting it blasted, or whatever you choose to get all the old crap off,, before you put any kind of paint on (even poyester based primers) grind out all of the old repairs and any gel & laminate damage,, ie - every crack must be ground out & repaired properly,,,,if you miss a crack or some crazing in the gel at this stage it will appear after a while in the finished paint job for sure.

unclejtl · Post by **unclejtl** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 9:14 pm

thanks for all your help/info. I will be trying some of the suggestions this weekend. I'll post my findings/problems! ha! jason