Manx Club

Starting a new build (or finishing an old build) on a SR2 Body I purchased this summer. The body is just setting on a rusty old pan. The fiberglass has never been drilled for mounting. It is a "virgin" car.


Has the original Targa Top that needs fitted.

Every time I see a pic I shake my head at not bidding against you!
(We spoke about it at Buffalo....)
Keep us posted please!

Looks better already with some proper size tires.



1969 Donor Beetle. Poor guys barn fell on it.





Up ya' go...

Tar Paper + Silicone + Sheet Metal + Pop Rivets + Plywood + Metal Screws + Spray Foam = 1969 VW Floor Pans







Getting down to the bones



Other than the Swiss Cheese floorboards, this really is a pretty solid pan. Much better than my last project.

Oscillating tool with scraper blade worked well removing tar insulation.



Looks like someone tried to butcher a hole in the tunnel with a dull butter knife. I'll open this up to have a look at all the tubes I hope not to cut.



Scribing some layout lines to shorten the tunnel.



At this point I am just cutting away the rusted floorboards. I have seen many people buy brand new floorboards, weld them in and then cut them in half when they shorten the chassis. I don't see the point in wasting hundreds of dollars here. Ultimately I will form up a couple outside rails out of square tubing and weld in sheet metal floors. I did this on my last buggy and it will be many, many times stronger then the "tin foil" they make aftermarket pans out of. Steel is cheap and labor is free..... as long as it's fun..





A few cut-off wheels in a disc grinder made easy work out of this.

Looks like a great winter project you have. Always wanted a SR when I was younger.
Please don't compare all replacement floor pans as junk. Yes there are crap pans that everyone sell except for the Wolfsburg West one. They are the best. As thick as the original VW factory ones. I know this as I found it out myself. I bought the cheap ones that were suppose to be the good ones and found out how bad they were on my own buggy restoration. The Wolfsburg West ones have the factory stampings making them stronger then just flat sheet metal, plus they have the step down which helps lower the seating position. And they are lighter in weight then sheet metal. You don't have to add stiffeners to keep them from flexing. I have my seat tracks (aftermarket) mounted directly to the pans without any flexing problems.
The other thing I did to the pan halves was add 1-1/4in .065" wall square tubing in channel at pan edge. This helps with cars used off road and also made a place where I could attach my side pods.

I have to completely disassemble the body to remove it from this old swingaxle pan. The bodysides wrap underneath the outside rail, preventing me from simply lifting it straight off.



All the bolts are rusty. They will be replaced with stainless steel on final assembly.



Had to drill out dozens of aluminum pop rivets to separate the body panels. It surprised me how the aluminum rivets oxidized over time. If I squeeze the backside with a pliers they crumble. They all will be replaced with stainless pop rivets.



Its hard to think of this as forward progress





The body side is a lot longer than it looked on the car.

Thanks for those pictures. Never seen one stripped back like that. It looks really well designed. No surprise there!

Now that you have the body almost completely taken apart, here's an idea. If you remove the canopy from the tub and make it a removable part with nuts and bolts around the engine bay plus some latches for inside the rear seat area, you can make the car configurable as an open roadster type or a coupe.

I've done that with my SR and as you can imagine, it's a fun and completely different driving experience either way.

That's a great idea. I would love to see some pictures of that. I, however, will probably leave the top as originally designed. I want this car to be a little warmer ride than my classic buggy with the option to close it up with the targa top if the weather goes south. I absolutely love my classic buggy and believe that a top does not belong on her.

Final pieces removed.



I am going to leave the dash panel installed. There is really no reason for me to remove it. I will, however, replace all the rusty screws with stainless fasteners.



I think I am finally at a turning point. It's time to start the cleanup and reassembly.

If anyone knows where I could find new rubber moldings for the doors as well as the rubber turn signal light mounts, please let me know. I can clean and reuse the old ones if I have to, but they are weathered a bit and new ones will make it look much nicer.



Door moldings, kind of an "h" cross section a couple of inches wide.



Front turn signal mounts.

Finally getting around to shortening the pan. Used the tub to get the length just right.



Across the top and down the sides I had about a 1/8" gap. I stitch welded it closed and then added strapping over the seams to strengthen everything up.

Added a cross-member under the top hat.



Tied in new outside rails using the body as a template.

Installed front beam adjusters.

Aligned and reinforced the frame horns.



((Yes, I realize the engine cradle is up-side down. Just used it for alignment.))