Shifter with trigger

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jsturtlebuggy
Posts: 652
Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 5:00 am

Re: Shifter with trigger

Post by jsturtlebuggy »

Yes, if clutch is not adjusted properly it will cause a grind going into the lower gears. If free play feels fine when you adjust clutch cable, the clutch cable tube in the tunnel may be broken loose and moving. When tube moves it causes clutch not to release properly. Also check clutch pedal, they can brake close to where the pin is at pivot point. This would be at bottom of pedal. Also if pressure plate has damage it can cause it not to release. Forks holding TO bearing on cross shaft breaking loose can cause it too.
Joseph
Manx Club #1095
Having fun with Buggies since 1970
Worked in VWs in shops since 1970
Momboy007
Posts: 78
Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2016 6:56 pm

Re: Shifter with trigger

Post by Momboy007 »

Hello Turtle,
It only grinds when stopped going into first or reverse, no other gears affected? Hope this helps, what do you recommend, clutch adjustment?
Thanks,
Rick
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jsturtlebuggy
Posts: 652
Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 5:00 am

Re: Shifter with trigger

Post by jsturtlebuggy »

Yes try adjusting the clutch free play first. Can you hear any sounds coming from the tunnel with engine off and stepping on the clutch pedal?
Joseph
Manx Club #1095
Having fun with Buggies since 1970
Worked in VWs in shops since 1970
Momboy007
Posts: 78
Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2016 6:56 pm

Re: Shifter with trigger

Post by Momboy007 »

No, I hear nothing out of the usual

Rick
lastmanx
Posts: 394
Joined: Sun Mar 29, 2015 7:40 pm
Location: Ashland Massachusettes

Re: Shifter with trigger

Post by lastmanx »

your clutch adjustment is fine, since it didn't grind with other shifter. if you can't find it grind it. you have not adjusted the shift lever correct yet. you need adjust the housing slight to left towards drive side. loosen but keep snug wack bottom using wood on housing and tap with hammer retighten and try. now all these tips assume every thing else was aligned properly. I think since you had problems with other shifter they are not correct. get a bentley service manual with good pictures . look for picture of shifter and try to duplicate bolt locations some times this works. here is the problem: from the vw factory every thing is aligned. when everything gets cut and weld it may be slightly out of alignment. it's now up to you to realign it. it is easy or simple as no special tools or talent are needed except patience. on my buggy the cut and weld were excellent yet it took me almost 2 hours to dial or adjust everything to work (clutch, shift rod, shift lever). once its done correct the shift rod never goes out of adjustment and replacing shifter is much easier. you are making all the newbie mistakes we all did. changing parts with new that do nothing and trying to improve things you don't know how to fix. if the original shift problem was an easy fix the last owner would have fixed it rather than continuing to drive that way. get the 3 books all newbies should read I mentioned in board index and read them. you are now the mechanic so start learning. lecture over. learn what a correct shift rod, shifter etc. is supposed to look like and fix it all.believe me you can do it. it will be frustrating but its up to you. stop trying to improve fix things until you know you can. good luck cheer up we have all been there.
Momboy007
Posts: 78
Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2016 6:56 pm

Re: Shifter with trigger

Post by Momboy007 »

I think it did grind with other shifter, but I am not sure if it was me or the shifter, it was such a very very short throw

Rick
lastmanx
Posts: 394
Joined: Sun Mar 29, 2015 7:40 pm
Location: Ashland Massachusettes

Re: Shifter with trigger

Post by lastmanx »

OH! by all means you need a new transaxle..... NO YOU DON'T just kidding. like I said you can't find em so you are grinding them. the gear "selector " is out of alignment . the "selector" is the shifter and its associated parts. it's up to you to get them right. find neutral with the shifter. mark the bolt and base locations for reference. (photo, tape or marker, any way.) remove shifter (no sweat you don't have it right ). look in the tunnel hole to see the (tobacco looking pipe) piece that the shift ball fits into. it should be facing up((not leaning left or right) . if it got knocked a little when pulling shifter grab it and put it straight up. it should want to go there (no binding). it also should be dead center located within the oval cut out in tunnel. if it is not perfect where I said it should be.(dance around you found the problem) adjust it so it is where it must be. the "adjustable" nut thing on the end of shift rod is where you fix it. now while your in there (since it ain't working anyway) be sure the coupler is in correct location on trans end, remove the bolt that holds it there .it is pointed on bottom and fits in a pointed hole. be sure its in the hole. do the same on shift rod end. put safety wire back on so it stays there. look at coupler is it perfect? be sure it is if worn buy a new one. look at nosecone bushing is it leaking oil or sloppy? (you're not ready yet to fix it if its bad) if leaky watch trans oil level: which you already changed right? And under shifter where the pipe cup is: it is held in a bracket. the bracket is solid? the rod goes through the bracket within a plastic bushing,so that the rod has no play or slop but is well greased and slides back and forth and twists smoothly. if the plastic bushing is worn or missing (also dance around you found the problem) you need to replace it. without the plastic bushing things will not line up, shift selection will be off. to put a new $1dollar bushing in you have to pull the shift rod out. it's a real pain to change as in time consuming and frustrating but no special skill or tools needed. I will let you read on how to do it as a don't want to deny you the feeling of pride and accomplishment you will get on completion. I will assume you know where to put grease on shifter and other compo nets. and lastly I will assume your idle speed is correct at 800 rpm and not super high just to keep it running as that could be your issue and would make this long explanation totally unnecessary. pull up your big boy pants and fix your buggy. smile you are about to experience the fun we all talk about that we enjoy when building our buggys. I am full of this joy as I spent the better part of yesterday replacing the alarm that failed in my Manx SS . :roll: :) ( oh by the way the 3 books every newbie should read will have good pictures and directions that would explain this to you way better than my ramblings) keep smiling buggy on and its a nice day outside so i'm going for a buggy ride as I can as I fixed mine . :wink:
Momboy007
Posts: 78
Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2016 6:56 pm

Re: Shifter with trigger

Post by Momboy007 »

Hello All,

Just wanted to report my shift/transaxle no longer grinds going into gear and now I can find all gears easily.
I first started off my project by checking clutch end play, it had half a pedal worth, so I got under the buggy and adjusted the wing nut until I had about half an inch free play in the clutch pedal, this led to NO MORE GRINDING!!!! Wooo-Hoo Note: I am now out of any future adjustment on the wing nut-cable must have stretched!
I then adjusted the shifter itself to be able to find gears easily, I did mark the shifter before I started with a sharpy and I actual ended up not to far off from where I began.

It is all good now!!!! and I am happy
lastmanx
Posts: 394
Joined: Sun Mar 29, 2015 7:40 pm
Location: Ashland Massachusettes

Re: Shifter with trigger

Post by lastmanx »

first glad you got it fixed. the clutch cable is also cut and shortened usually overlapped and held together with u bolts (the cheap way) or the bugpack adapter. so you could realign or shorten further the cable to get more adjustment; but you won't need to do it for a long time if ever. good job and how was that feeling of fixing it yourself ? continue to read books on vw's before you attempt a fix, so you will know ahead of time how to fix it or whether it can be improved on. when you have time one step at a time ,start going through your buggy checking and correcting things. adjusting the valves is in my opinion the one thing never done on a vw. check that first. then start on front bearings and every thing else in the john muir manual. when you get done you will have an overwhelming understanding of how they work and the confidence that your buggy is in healthy shape to take anywhere not just around town to the local ice cream shop. keep smiling and buggy on!
Momboy007
Posts: 78
Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2016 6:56 pm

Re: Shifter with trigger

Post by Momboy007 »

Thanks LastManx,
You are correct, the clutch cable still has more adjustment left in it if I unbend the cable and shorten up the cable using those cheesy u-bolts you are referring to.
I have already checked the valves using the John Muir manual, this is old hat to me as I have a 4 stroke dirt bike that I have to check and adjust valves on every 20 Hours.
This Weekend I am going to adjust the tension in the alternator belt as I feel it is waaaay too loose, still charging good and not slipping, but needs done

Rick
lastmanx
Posts: 394
Joined: Sun Mar 29, 2015 7:40 pm
Location: Ashland Massachusettes

Re: Shifter with trigger

Post by lastmanx »

my basic point is: to be sure what condition your buggy is in you have to look. when I buy a project I go through everything. I never assume regular service has been done. yes it takes awhile. I have found original grease in bearings, front torsion bars never greased, and more. but when done I now have a start point to go forward. as you found out a simple turn of wingnut was what fixed your buggy shift issue. you didn't need to change the shifter other than wanting a longer throw. These are strange vehicles and understanding what needs to be fixed by the book is the first step. I consider the u-bolt set up to actually be the best way to shorten the clutch cable. again good job getting it done. keep smiling and buggy on.
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