1600 DP Top End

[Jersey Manx]

I am in the beginning stages of a buggy build and need to get started on the engine work. Back story...purchased a complete 1970 bug with a 1600 DP engine. I managed to get the engine running and it had good oil pressure no engine noises, other than exhaust leaks from rusted out exhaust and decent compression. When I pulled the engine and started taking it apart all the exhaust studs broke from the insane amounts of corrosion, this seems to have been a problem in the past as the PO had tried to drill one exhaust stud and has buggered up one of the cyl heads. Can the exhaust stud area be welded and redrilled or are these heads junk? I am trying to go with just a top end for this year and plan a complete engine build next winter. I saw topline parts has a 1700 bolt on top end kit that has pistons, cyl and heads in kit form (1700cc Bolt On Engine Kit. No machine work required! #10-1700). Has anyone used this set?

On another note, being a recent transplant from Southern California to South Jersey I am shocked with the amount of rust and corrosion that I have come across in my short time searching for projects, I didn't realize how spoiled I was living on the west coast until now. I guess it is a good thing that my car cravings are of the fiberglass variety (dune buggies and corvettes).

[pongo]

Tom, I have not used the "kit" Topline is advertising. Comparing the parts list with kit to those available elsewhere, I used carcraftstore.com and found you can either save money buying the same parts, or upgrade the heads and still save some money buying from carcraft. For what it's worth, I put their heads on my buggy for last years ECVW trip, and have no complaints.

[Jersey Manx]

Thanks for the info I will look into that. What upgrade would you get for the heads. I was thinking a 1835 or 1900 in the future would those head work on that size with some machine work for larger cylinders?

[pongo]

You can order the "big valve" heads for a little more money or get into the ported/polished heads for a lot more.
If you use the thick wall 88mm cylinders, the heads will need to be cut to same dimension as the 90.5mm(1776cc) and 92mm(1835cc). If you later decide to go up in size to 90.5 or 92mm piston/cylinders you will have to have your case opening cut larger, but can use the same heads from the thick wall 88mm set up.

If you go to 1915cc, you will have to cut the case and your heads, to accept the 94mm piston kit.
from the web:
87mm are slip in (85.5 bore), 88mm come in slip-in (no machine work) and 88mm Thick Wall with machine on the Head side (90.5/92) and case side is slip in.

90.5 and larger kits require machine work on Heads and Case.

92mm Thick Walls come 2 different ways. 92-Thick is 94mm on Top and Bottom of Cylinder, 92-Thick-Step are 92 at case side and 94 on Cylinder Head side (Thick Top).

[Old-Towd]

Buggy Buddys here's Top Line Parts ( http://toplineparts.com/vw-engine/1700c ... -1700.html ) 1700cc Bolt On Engine Kit. No machine work required! #10-1700 - The new "machine in" set of 88s we use is "slip in" on the case side, but "machine in" on the head end, making for a nice thick cylinder top. Someone stated that you would have to machine the heads when upgrading to a 90.5 or 92mm cylinder, but this is not the case. The heads come already machined by us for 90.5/92 so the customer doesn't have to do any work. The heads are supplied with stock size valves, and this is definitely the way to go with stock lower end and stock cam. You can talk to Top Line Jon with any questions
1 714 630-8371
( 2910-East Miraloma Ave, Unit A Anaheim, CA 92806 )

[RedBaronofRedBud]

I upgraded to the topline 88 slip in and heads. Excellent quality and fit! When I measured the cc's for setting deck height and compression ratio, the heads were all the same cc. Gave me a final ratio of 8.5:1. The power is nice and smooth and pulls hills with no problem. Worth the upgrade!