Manxter Hardtop Latch
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- Posts: 610
- Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2010 6:00 am
- Location: Vernon, CT
Manxter Hardtop Latch
Scott - I bet to do the SubaruGears conversion, you would have to take the body off the chassis. There is a lot of tunnel cutting & welding front & rear from what I have seen. Same situation if you go with a Mendeola transaxle. Glad to hear your Manxter is running better. Tom
Tom & Kathleen Iacoboni
# 1030
Vernon, CT
1968 Meyers Manx, 1971 Manxter S, 1972 KickOut SS (WIP)
# 1030
Vernon, CT
1968 Meyers Manx, 1971 Manxter S, 1972 KickOut SS (WIP)
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- Posts: 400
- Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2010 6:00 am
Manxter Hardtop Latch
Hi Adam, Thank you for the update. I'm thinking of moving over to 18" rims so that will be helpful when I get to that stage. The stance of your car is perfect. though!
Hi Tom, Well, I'm not sure . . . Brad has offered to hire out his services since he's installed them before. He did say the body would need to have a cut in it right behind the rear seats to accommodate the new larger bell housing. However, he also thinks he can remove one tube that runs over the existing Type 1 transaxle now and install a new one higher up to fit the Subaru under it. But, you're right, the shift linkage area is still a bit of an unknown as to rather or not the body would have to come off. But even if it does, the body is wired separately from the chassis, so I believe other than making a few disconnects at the second fuse box by the engine control module, the body should come off fairly easily if it needs to.
The real issue is still gonna be money. (Hmm, I don't really need TWO kidneys . . . .)
Hi Tom, Well, I'm not sure . . . Brad has offered to hire out his services since he's installed them before. He did say the body would need to have a cut in it right behind the rear seats to accommodate the new larger bell housing. However, he also thinks he can remove one tube that runs over the existing Type 1 transaxle now and install a new one higher up to fit the Subaru under it. But, you're right, the shift linkage area is still a bit of an unknown as to rather or not the body would have to come off. But even if it does, the body is wired separately from the chassis, so I believe other than making a few disconnects at the second fuse box by the engine control module, the body should come off fairly easily if it needs to.
The real issue is still gonna be money. (Hmm, I don't really need TWO kidneys . . . .)
Scott Drolet
MC Vice President
MC 47, DSB, RBC, Long Haul League, '64 Monocoque, '67 Manx, '73 Manxter, '64 Stainless Burro, '64 Corvair Burro, '65 Corvair Burro
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MC Vice President
MC 47, DSB, RBC, Long Haul League, '64 Monocoque, '67 Manx, '73 Manxter, '64 Stainless Burro, '64 Corvair Burro, '65 Corvair Burro
http://www.ManxClub.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.SeaToSeaSafari.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.BurroBuggies.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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- Posts: 164
- Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 5:00 am
Manxter Hardtop Latch
Nope, we can do it body on in a Manxter. I have mine going in next week and once that is done and Bruce has the new rear Boob sorted for the C2C Manx all the bits will be sorted for a semi bolt in sort of gig.Tom Kathleen wrote:Scott - I bet to do the SubaruGears conversion, you would have to take the body off the chassis. There is a lot of tunnel cutting & welding front & rear from what I have seen. Same situation if you go with a Mendeola transaxle. Glad to hear your Manxter is running better. Tom
As far as cutting goes most of it is done to make life easy rather than having to. The shift linkage sits about and inch higher than stock and there are several options to make it work. Again once I have mine sorted with State Side parts I will post a blurb on it. There isn't anything voo doo about it and Todd has done a great job making most of it pretty much bolt in.
With Scott's being a H6 there will be a few mods needed to the cooling pipes etc but the beauty of having a lift is that you get to work at standing height rather than on your back
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- Posts: 610
- Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2010 6:00 am
- Location: Vernon, CT
Manxter Hardtop Latch
I stand corrected. Glad to hear it is easier than it looks. Tom
Tom & Kathleen Iacoboni
# 1030
Vernon, CT
1968 Meyers Manx, 1971 Manxter S, 1972 KickOut SS (WIP)
# 1030
Vernon, CT
1968 Meyers Manx, 1971 Manxter S, 1972 KickOut SS (WIP)
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- Posts: 184
- Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 5:00 am
Manxter Hardtop Latch
That's great news. Are you posting a thread about the installation on your manxter? I'm very interested in going with the SubaruGears transaxl in my Manxter as well. I know they have an adapter now that reduces the increase in engine height to just under an inch as well.Manx Australia wrote:Nope, we can do it body on in a Manxter. I have mine going in next week and once that is done and Bruce has the new rear Boob sorted for the C2C Manx all the bits will be sorted for a semi bolt in sort of gig.Tom Kathleen wrote:Scott - I bet to do the SubaruGears conversion, you would have to take the body off the chassis. There is a lot of tunnel cutting & welding front & rear from what I have seen. Same situation if you go with a Mendeola transaxle. Glad to hear your Manxter is running better. Tom
As far as cutting goes most of it is done to make life easy rather than having to. The shift linkage sits about and inch higher than stock and there are several options to make it work. Again once I have mine sorted with State Side parts I will post a blurb on it. There isn't anything voo doo about it and Todd has done a great job making most of it pretty much bolt in.
With Scott's being a H6 there will be a few mods needed to the cooling pipes etc but the beauty of having a lift is that you get to work at standing height rather than on your back