Full Flow Filters

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Dan B.
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Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:11 am

Post by Dan B. »

Yo Isjimbo, Maybe i'll be ok then. I'm running a 1776 with a doghouse cooler and will be doing mainly pavement pounding. I'll see how things go, without worrying about "maybe" stuff. I tend to go overkill on some stuff. Thanks, Dan
newmanx59
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Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 9:00 pm

Post by newmanx59 »

Mine is mounted on the back of the battery box. It's out of the way and easy to get to. Image
Ed-Chenal
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Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:00 am
Location: SoCal

Post by Ed-Chenal »

With all due respect to those who design and manufacture them, I don't favor oil filter brackets that attach to the exhaust port of the head. Adding heat to the oil seems counter productive to me. My oil filter bracket is attached to my engine cage. The engine cage actually discipates the heat from the oil filter.
Ed
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5150bossman
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Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2010 5:00 am
Location: So Cal

Post by 5150bossman »

I agree with Ed (Don't you just love opinions... They are like a------s, everyone has one!!!). One other thing to consider, if you use the steel braided lines, be careful they don't chafe against each other. The steel weave acts like two pieces of sand paper and could quickly rub a hole in the line. Even if they are zip tied together. We were out on a run where this happened to another car in the middle of nowhere (the lines were zip tied together, and the owner couldn't figure out how it happened). Try and keep them from touching each other. If you have to zip tie them together, then get a bike inner tube, cut it in strips, and sandwich the rubber between the steel braided lines before you mount them. That way, there is something to keep the two lines separated, and prevent them from chafing each other with all the bouncing and vibration.
Tom-Kathleen
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Location: Vernon, CT

Post by Tom-Kathleen »

Or you can use 2 zip ties. One goes around both hoses loosely, and the other one goes between the hoses around the 1st zip tie. They make a figure 8 with a space. This will hold them together, but still create a space so they don't rub. This will work if the hoses are running parallel or perpendicular. We 1st saw this on the Subaru engine from Outfront (Outback). Tom
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Dan B.
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Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:11 am

oil capacity calculation

Post by Dan B. »

Ok guys & gals, Here's my dumb question of the day. Is there a basic rule or calc to use to figure out how much your oil capacity increases per lineal foot of supply and return hose? I know a Fram PH8a adds about .75 quarts to your oil capacity, but what about the addition of say 6ft total of 3/4" supply and return hose? This info would come in handy on the first startup after adding a remote filtering setup.
Gene-C
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Post by Gene-C »

Plug up one end of the hose, fill with oil and measure the amount it takes to fill it. Or you can go thru some mathematic formulas and figure the volume. Figure the area ( 3.14159 x 0.75 x length in inchs) = cu. in. and 231 cu. in. = 1 gallon divided by 4 = 1 qt, etc. Or fill 1 ft. of hose and multiply by six. By the time an oil filter absorbs all the oil in the paper filters, most car makers say add one quart for a filter.
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jsturtlebuggy
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Post by jsturtlebuggy »

A stock 1600cc VW engine take 5.3 pints of oil which is little less than 3 quarts. Not knowing how your external oil system is routed an how much oil will drain back into the engine case when engine is shut off. If it was mine I would start out with 3 quarts of oil and start engine and let it idle for a few minutes and the shut of engine and let it sit for a few minutes before pulling the dipstick to check level. Then add the amount of oil that you need to bring it up to the full mark on the dip stick. What part of Sacramento are you in? I am in the Fair Oaks/Orangevale area if you need some help.
Joseph
Manx Club #1095
Having fun with Buggies since 1970
Worked in VWs in shops since 1970
Dan B.
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Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:11 am

Post by Dan B. »

jsturtlebuggy, i'm almost next door to you in Folsom Dan
Dan B.
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Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:11 am

Post by Dan B. »

jsturtlebuggy, thanks for the offer of further assistance! As i'm somewhat new to vw's I may take you up on your offer. Thanks again for your offer Dan
Dan B.
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Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:11 am

Post by Dan B. »

Isjimbo, Thats some great info you gave me there. That will help me out a lot in calc'ing the additional oil quantity. I was unsure about if the oil drained back into the crankcase when the engine is shut off or whether it stays captive in the oil hoses. Thanks for your fast response. Dan
1856
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Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 6:00 am

Post by 1856 »

This bring up an interesting question ... when measuring the additional capacity need to fill a filter and secondary cooler it adds up to 5 quarts. Both filter and cooler are above the engine and drain back into the pan ... should I only maintain the the level at 3 quarts ... does that leave 1 quart in the engine when its running ?
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rzeller
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Location: Wilmington, NC

Post by rzeller »

[quote="1856;13950"]This bring up an interesting question ... when measuring the additional capacity need to fill a filter and secondary cooler it adds up to 5 quarts. Both filter and cooler are above the engine and drain back into the pan ... should I only maintain the the level at 3 quarts ... does that leave 1 quart in the engine when its running ?[/quote] Thanks for asking this question. Now I'm a little concerned about creating an oil geyser :-) when I shut my motor off. Is it only the oil in the lines that drains back? Does that create an oil pressure issue when you first start the motor? I am glad I asked the original question now. Thanks, Bud
Bud Zeller
Wilmington, NC
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Dan B.
Posts: 59
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:11 am

Check valve?

Post by Dan B. »

If oil drain back is an issue at shut down, maybe a check valve in the oil lines would solve the problem. Is such an animal used in vw's? Dan
newmanx59
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Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 9:00 pm

Post by newmanx59 »

I mounted my filter on the back of the battery box, it's out of the way and easy to get to. Image
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