hard cranking prob and question
hard cranking prob and question
well... new 1915 new alt, optima red batt and yes new starter too... still cranks very slow wont fire and is pissing me off HA. Someone told me that if a pressure relief valve sticks it would cause excessive oil pressure? Would this cause a slow to no crank? The oil filter is hard as a rock i cant even push it in to dent it with my fingers, Is this normal? I am running a 96 plate oil cooler via an adapter to the original oil cooler mounting location, I have a duel relief case that has been tapped for full flow and am running my oil filter from the oil pump to the tapped part of the case(inlet) Is all this ok? Thank you greatly folks for all your considerate help and knowledge.
sounds like it is correct. i cant crush my oil filter either. not sure of problem with oil.. can you turn engine with your hand? or a wrench? if so, i would not think it is any oil problem but more like an electrical problem. try to use a jumper cable from the pos side of batt to the bolt where the bat cable mounts to starter. dont remove the existing cable. this is to see if the cable has a brake down in it or is the wrong size cable. other thing to make sure are clean connections. i know you said new but?? also other things to think of are , is fuel dumping into intake filling cylinders? do you have duel carbs ? or an electrical fuel pump? if so its the pump running for long time with out engine running? you may get a better answer from others. who built the engine? you or ?? name?? i had a engine do this to me . when the end play was adjusted. turned out that the main barring was not installed correctly, as in the little pin that holds the barring was not in the hole and was pinching the crank. it would barely turn over.. (I built the engine too) dough
you may also check your valves too. make sure they are adjusted correctly. what year trans do you have? if it is a early swing there is clearances that needs to be done for a 200mm fly wheel. but if you used it before now with same fly wheel that would not be it. I would call the builder myself. or put into another car / buggy and see what happens. Or go to www.thesamba.com and ask them in the forum there are many people there willing to help .
Update... And Thank-you And Help...
ok Thanks ya-all, well... I tried reterming the cable and cleaning all connections, also pulled out the starter and much to my amazment there is an acess panel in the back of my buggy right above the starter, after removing this i was able to peer at what was left of my starter bushing, (I thought for a moment that i struck gold) lots of shiny flake in there, Could this damn thing be the sole reason for slow to no crank??? (that would amaze me) also noticed the clearance tween the flywheel and starter housing, very very close, but turns freely. is this normal? the starter bolted right up and seemed to mate to the flywheel with no trouble. Thanks Again for all your help.
you need to determine if the problem is caused by something binding, or if it is an electrical problem. Can you freely turn the engine over with a wrench on the front pulley? If it is tight you need to look for a reason, could be crankshaft end play or? If it turns over reasonably easy, maybe remove the plugs, and see if it then cranks over, if somehow the cylinders are filled with fuel, youll know. Also, just because a battery is new, doesnt mean its fully charged. Sometimes if the timing is set too advanced, the engine will act strangely while cranking over. And theres always the possibility that you have a bad starter. Who put the flywheel on the engine, and did they set the crank end play correctly? On a volkswagen, this is adjusted by adding shims between the flywheel and crank, always using a combination of 3 shims to achieve 5 to 8 thousands end play. Sorry about my rambling on, just trying to give you possibilities. If you dont think its a problem with the starter or battery, I wouldnt try to start it anymore until the problem is found.
Thanks joemama and all of you.. i pulled the starter and the bushing is clearly worn out lots of brass or copper shavings, finding this acess panel above the starter really helped me to turn engine over by the flywheel with a large prybar, does not seem to be any binding... would this bushing be the cause of the whole thing? and does anybody know any tricks to getting the bugger out? Thanks again folks
the starter is not self supporting, meaning that this bushing is what aligns the starter shaft (I think starters for auto stick bugs are self supporting and fit ), so if its worn out, could be causing some binding. I dont think I have ever replaced one, but it looks like you need to drive it out from inside the bellhousing, you would need to remove the engine to do this. Maybe others can verify this. If you need to drive a new bushing in, a good trick is to put the new bushing in the freezer to shrink it and make it easier to drive in. Also, there are 3 bushings possible, a 6 volt bushing, a 12 volt bushing, and a bushing to adapt a 12 volt starter to a 6 volt transaxle.
There are pullers available that will grab the bushing and pull it out thru the starter hole. I have threaded a tap into the old bushing, clamped a Vise Grip on the tap, then hit the Vise Grip with a hammer to pull the bushing out. It has worked most of the time. You can always pull the engine to gain access to the bushing if the Vise Grip trick doesn't work.
[QUOTE="WuZaBuG"]I switched my buggy from a 1200-6v to a 1500-12v. I didnt change the bushing for the starter. (I bought one just didnt bother.). I have had no problems at all. I did however have to grind the chutch housing to alllow for the larger flywheel. :2cents:[/QUOTE] How's that? The old 6V starter wouldn't have meshed with the 12V flywheel.