Manxter Dual Sport DS-17

The Manxter 2+2 & Dual Sport. Created as an answer to the limitations of the classic Meyers Manx.
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manxvair
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Location: Mohave Valley, AZ

Re: Manxter Dual Sport DS-17

Post by manxvair »

Great info Joseph! I will be referencing this in the future.


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Mike Dario
Mohave Valley, AZ
Manx Club #957
Manx Club President

Tow'd (Hers)
Manxvair (His)
Manxter Dual Sport #30 Baja Edition #2 (Ours)
Resorter #19-Fuscia(under construction)
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jsturtlebuggy
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Re: Manxter Dual Sport DS-17

Post by jsturtlebuggy »

Thank you all for the nice replies.

Since I built the Dual Sport to use off road, I knew that the bottom side was going to get beat up when around rocky terrain. I did not want to use the stock floor pans. On the Kick Out when I tore the old buggy apart to rebuild it for the new body, the pans were badly dented and even some rips from sharp rocks. They were the original pans from 1969 that my Dad had shorten. The Kick Out received new Wolfsberg West pans as it was going to be street buggy only or so I thought.
Back to the Dual Sport. Coming from a off road racing background, I wanted to be able to take the buggy completely apart to inspect and repair as needed. I started out with building a perimeter chassis using 1 1/2in .095" wall tubing for lower frame rail. I sunk the rear cross piece into frame horns so that the side rails would be at the height of the stock VW pans. Doing it this way the body would sit on the rear of the center tunnel area and across the Napoleon hat at the front. For the body to be able to mount to the round tubing out side frame rails, there is a 1 1/2in x 1/8in flat stock welded to the tubing. The center tunnel is dimensions except for now where I am modifying at the throttle pedal for more side room.
For a floor pan I am using a sheet of .100" aluminum that bolts to tabs welded to outer perimeter and to the sides of the center tunnel. In less than 10 minutes I can have the floor off to look at or get to things. This has really help with being able to get to pedals and things under the dash.
To strengthen the frame, the lower side rails are connected to the side intrusion bars (that come in the kit) using 1in tubing welded in place. Pattern is in a triangle. Tying the upper and lower frame rails together adds strength and more protection from a side impact.
At the front sub-frame assembly I add a diagonal 1in cross piece to control the front of the frame from twisting.
chassis left underside reduced size.jpg
chassis left underside reduced size.jpg (65.95 KiB) Viewed 5134 times
floor pan top side reduce size.jpg
floor pan top side reduce size.jpg (62.4 KiB) Viewed 5134 times
floor pan bottom side reduce size.jpg
floor pan bottom side reduce size.jpg (56.34 KiB) Viewed 5134 times
Joseph
Manx Club #1095
Having fun with Buggies since 1970
Worked in VWs in shops since 1970
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jsturtlebuggy
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Re: Manxter Dual Sport DS-17

Post by jsturtlebuggy »

As you can see the floor pan get beat up. I like to play hard. More pictures.
Also from racing off road, mounting of the pedals on a separate piece of 1/4in thick aluminum is for if anything happens to the full floor pan. In off road racing it has happen to many in the early years. Rick Mears, 4time Indy winner had it happen in a desert race.
Judging how tall rocks are in a sand wash can some times get you too.
diaginal brace across front chassis.jpg
diaginal brace across front chassis.jpg (91.8 KiB) Viewed 5134 times
pedal mount from bottom reduce size.jpg
pedal mount from bottom reduce size.jpg (92.45 KiB) Viewed 5134 times
dent in front axle beam reduce size.jpg
dent in front axle beam reduce size.jpg (73.54 KiB) Viewed 5134 times
Joseph
Manx Club #1095
Having fun with Buggies since 1970
Worked in VWs in shops since 1970
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jsturtlebuggy
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Re: Manxter Dual Sport DS-17

Post by jsturtlebuggy »

With wanting to use 2 1/4in longer trailing arms instead of 4in longer arms I ran into a problem. I was not getting enough travel that I expected to get. Using 10in travel shocks I should be 12in of wheel travel, it was not even close. I was getting the same wheel travel with using a 8in or 10in travel shocks.
With looking at the towers and the room above them in the body, I could see what I needed to do. That was to make new shock towers that were longer and fit into the area of the fiberglass body. The shock towers that are on the sub frame are made from 1 1/4in diameter tubing. I had 1in .125" wall tubing plus a 1in die to bend them. I never needed a 1 1/4in die for the bender since I don't use that size tubing for any of my projects. Dies are not cheap.
I was able to use part of the old shock tower on beam and slipped the 1in tubing inside of it. The back part of the hoop where it is welded is in a different location than what came on the sub frame. This was to be able to clear the body.
With the making of the new hoops, I was able to get the 12in of travel that I wanted. Here are the before and after pictures.

FYI, If using 4in longer arms 15-16in of wheel travel is possible with correct length shock towers.
Pictures are of left side.
manxter ds left front shock tower original too short.JPG
manxter ds left front shock tower original too short.JPG (102.8 KiB) Viewed 5127 times
left front  remade shock tower.jpg
left front remade shock tower.jpg (68.1 KiB) Viewed 5127 times
left front shock tower inside view.jpg
left front shock tower inside view.jpg (85.55 KiB) Viewed 5127 times
Joseph
Manx Club #1095
Having fun with Buggies since 1970
Worked in VWs in shops since 1970
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jsturtlebuggy
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Re: Manxter Dual Sport DS-17

Post by jsturtlebuggy »

These are of right side shock tower.
manxter ds right side original too short shock tower.JPG
manxter ds right side original too short shock tower.JPG (86.15 KiB) Viewed 5127 times
right front remade shock tower different view.jpg
right front remade shock tower different view.jpg (54.65 KiB) Viewed 5127 times
right front shock tower from inside view.jpg
right front shock tower from inside view.jpg (83.54 KiB) Viewed 5127 times
Joseph
Manx Club #1095
Having fun with Buggies since 1970
Worked in VWs in shops since 1970
Brad
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 6:41 am

Re: Manxter Dual Sport DS-17

Post by Brad »

Great to see all the little tweaks you have done to make it your own and get it to work.

In regards to your floor did you find any issues putting it under the tunnel like that and having to deal with the press patterns spacing it down relative to the sides ( I think that makes sense) ?

Will you go 0.100 again ?
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jsturtlebuggy
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Re: Manxter Dual Sport DS-17

Post by jsturtlebuggy »

Yes there is some bow where floor pan goes under the center tunnel. It not much. Tabs are welded on the side of the tunnel even with the bottom lip. The ribbing on the bottom of the tunnel are lower then the tabs that are welded on. The tabs have weld nuts from McMaster-Carr welded to them. They are a larger outer diameter with a recess on one side to get a better weld penetration. They are made of stainless steel.
When I first build it I went with .080" aluminum, it did not last long with rocks making large size dents in it. I now using .100" aluminum and it works ok. When it get to bent up to bad to repair I will replace it with .125" aluminum.
My reason for using one large sheet instead of two separates piece on each side of tunnel is it one large shear panel to add some strength to the chassis.
Joseph
Manx Club #1095
Having fun with Buggies since 1970
Worked in VWs in shops since 1970
Brad
Posts: 165
Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 6:41 am

Re: Manxter Dual Sport DS-17

Post by Brad »

Hows it going ?

After Norra I will never us anything less than 4mm again that's for sure. The 0.120" 6061 we used for bash plates got opened up like a tin can on the rocks.

Will it be at BigBear >
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jsturtlebuggy
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Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 5:00 am

Re: Manxter Dual Sport DS-17

Post by jsturtlebuggy »

I know it has been awhile since posting anything. A family issue happen in April and some other technical difficulties cropped up and I have not felt like posting. I think I have most every thing worked out. But as you know buggies are never really finish, you keep making improvements along the way.
Installing a VW Vanagon 094 5speed transaxle has been a good upgrade for it. The length of is only 1-1/16in longer then the VW Vanagon 091/1 4speed. Did have to modify the torsion housing a little, but still able to use torsion bars. I post some pictures soon. Right now getting it ready for the Topaz Lake run. Last year was a great time with everyone.
Joseph
Manx Club #1095
Having fun with Buggies since 1970
Worked in VWs in shops since 1970
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