Manx Club

Does anybody know if an 091 trans is a direct bolt in? The rear suspension is from a 1969 IRS beetle.....

No is the 091 is not a direct fit. It is larger then a type I trans. It requires work to make it fit. When I was working on my Tow'd before selling it even with dropping the front of the trans, the gas tank was going to need to be raise to clear it.
There are at least a couple of mounting kits for installing a Bus trans into Bug frame horns. It is going to require some fabrication to do it.
FYI both the 002 and 091 trans are longer then a Bug trans.
You can get adapter gear carriers for both Bus trans that use a Bug type shift housing (nose cone). Installing one does require complete tear down of trans.
You may want to look at the Subaru 5speed with reversed ring & pinion as another option.

Thanks for the info Joe.
Even though I have a Subaru 5 speed on the garage floor, I've decided the adaptor kit is cost prohibitive at this time.

I think the Subaru in the Tow'd requires a LOT more fabrication/reworking then the type 2, it sits taller.

I picked up an 091 trans yesterday. Today, despite a high of about 15* and 5" of snow falling outside I got a little work done.
So, I'm curious......
If the brace that connects the tube frame to the torsion tube is replaced with a taller brace would this essentially be like adding a lift?
This would allow me to get more travel from the shocks, of course that travel would be limited by the CV joint angles.

Yes, that is what was extended to fit the subaru trans into the Tow'd chassis.

Does anybody fab these and sell them or am I going to get make them?

TurnKey Manx did the ones on the the Landon's Subie Tow'd, you might contact them and get some feedback on going that direction. I know these look a little pricey but would require less fab work.
http://atomwerk.org/IRS_Introductory_Plates.html

Waza by now i should imagine you have seen my Australian built Towdster whichi have extensive build threads on here , the samba , and shoptalkforums to name a few .
Sorry ihave not updated this one much latley but i now have my custom back fenders fited and have a mould for them ,hint hint
Anyway there is more than one way to skin a cat and as Manxvair said yes the Subatowd has extended NEW rear torsion bar mounts but on that car they were moved rearwards NOT fowards as fenders were never in the equation anmd also to stop the Subatowd looking like a wacky racer and get some geometre back the front beam was also lowered on the front of the chassis
My car on the other hand will always have to have fenders as thats the rules here in Australia and having been started way way back it also has the standard mounting locations of both the front and rear torsions .
As for jsturtlebuggy stating that the 091 will need the tank raising is bullshit as if you lower the shifter input within 3/8 of the top the torsion housing the stock tan will fit with room to spare . Yes he is right in saying it is not a direct fit as you will need to clearance the insides of the engine horns quite serverly .
Among other major considerations on your build i would also add the following

1/rear braces from the end of the engine horns up the bottom of the halo / chassis

2/brace with barwork the halo / chassis up towards the front from the front of the rear torsion bar mounts as the towd chassis arnt spring chickens and are suseptable to cracks around halo to rear torsion housing tower meeting point

3/ given that this towd sounds like its getting seriose , a full roll cage would also be a high priority for me also tying it into the front beam


Some people will tell you that your adding way to much weight doing the above but on the other hand id rather be a bit heavier and make it home safe

My torsion eliminators showed up today.....
I'm still trying to decide which rear trailing arms I'm going to use.
I have my eye on a very nice set of "indestructible" arms however they are very heavy and likely overkill for my build.......

Does anybody know the inside diameter of the original Tow'd perimeter frame?
Thanks

So...5 months on...where are you at?

Your last post about the ID of the halo tube...measure through a hole in the frame to the inside of the other side with the pointy end of a vernier caliper, should be an easy calculation from there.

As our Aussie mate mentioned, adding a braced lower frame tube to tie the front and rear torsion tubes has become the norm, most having recognized the flex point cracking as an issue. It also permits proper lower seat belt mounts with the addition of a carefully placed cross tube. Same with down tubes to support the frame horn transmission mount, widely recognized as a necessary addition.

While eliminating the rear torsion bars in favor of coilovers has some advantages you now need to consider the additional loads you are imposing on the upper shock mounts, possibly adding reinforcement.

It's always a good idea to look at the bigger picture, consider the distant ramifications of our planned mods.Yes, there are lot of aftermarket parts for sale that will let you do almost anything, even to the point of making your pride and joy completely unsafe or drivable. I am a firm believer that there is nothing worse than a great salesman with a bad idea....