Manx vs. Manx II

[Esavetsky]

I am about to purchase what I believe is a Manx II. It sits on a 72 VW pan, and has a Meyers certification as a Manx. The certificate says #0394, and Registry Authentication Number 1201. Not sure what that means. Its got the flat rear seat area with no battery or spare tire area. Battery sits underneath the rear on passenger side. There's a B.F. Meyers metal tag riveted to the backseat bulkhead right between the two seats, but its in very poor condition and it only appears to have the number 26 stamped on it. The buggy was purchased in New Jersey a few years back, and came to Massachusetts where I'm purchasing it. I will try to post photos, new to this site. My question is what is the difference in value of a Manx vs a Manx II? The fiberglass gelcoat is in beautiful condition and it could be one of the newer Manx II bodies that I believe were produced in the 90's? Thanks in advance for any guidance. Looking forward to enjoying this fun vehicle.

[Esavetsky]

I just posted photos of the buggy, certificate and badge in the gallery under my name, Esavetsky.

[lastmanx]

I saw your photos. the certificate authenticates the buggy as a manx, it gives you a reassignment number and should be kept as proof of being a manx, don't loose it. the differences of manx II is the rear seat area you mentioned. the original id tag should have been on the finished surface: which is maybe why you got a reassignment number. there were no manx's built in the 90's. only the signature series from 1999-2000 were built. only 100 were built. in other words, no manx were officially made since 1972 until then. they have Bruce Meyer signature emblem on the rear. Are you sure its gelcoat and not painted? there is a difference. Your biggest concern living in MA. is how it is TITLED. Best would be Ma. title as a Dune Buggy, or Dune, or Buggy, with a VW vin number. if it is titled as a beetle, you may be hassled as you drive it. Ma. wants you to go through the specialty constructed vehicle inspection process. you will need to have and give original receipts for every part on the buggy. hard to do on an old buggy. you can own and drive on a beetle title. to drive it insuring it as a beetle is easiest even though it is not a beetle. collecter insurance is a nightmare, my insurance agent could only get me insurance for a Manx, as long as it was not driven. the buggy looked decent, buy it if you want, and pay a lot if every thing works (brakes engine transaxle turn signals horn high low beam headlights. it will have to pass a ma. safety inspection, not emission. good luck.

[Esavetsky]

Thanks LastManx - very helpful. The vehicle is titled as a 72 VW I believe, but will have another look at the title. It is MA titled, registered and inspected. You could be right on the paint vs gelcoat, I will take a better look at that. The current owner is insured thru Hagerty and says its pretty reasonable. Its got the same teardrop taillights as in your photos of the Signature Manx, but only singles. And the metal Meyers plate is riveted over carpet. Sounds like its a regular Manx II I guess. Runs great, and is in excellent shape, other than a few small bits. Slight oil drip from transaxle area, steering rubber coupler dry cracked, and a voltage leak, but I'm going to purchase it. Great vehicle for around here on Nantucket Island.

[rzeller]

I am about to purchase what I believe is a Manx II. It sits on a 72 VW pan, and has a Meyers certification as a Manx. The certificate says #0394, and Registry Authentication Number 1201.

My question is what is the difference in value of a Manx vs a Manx II?

Hello,

One of the first things you should do after purchasing this buggy is to join the Manx Club. With membership comes many perks, of which some include access to club-member-only events (you'll meet and interact with like-minded people), a semi-quarterly newsletter/magazine called the Manx Mania, and an archive of the back editions of the Mania. In the Manx Mania experts, historians, enthusiasts, and other club members write articles about the dune buggy, adventures, tech tips, etc. Specifically and somewhat to your questions above about Manx I vs II's, one of the club's historians has written a multi-edition article on the production numbers of the Meyers Manx and other factors that would go into helping evaluate perceived value. For you, I would think, this article alone would be worth the cost of a single year's membership. Something to consider. FYI, you don't have to own a dune buggy to be a member. The club welcomes enthusiasts too.

Here's a link to how to join: http://www.manxclub.com/membership.htm

Enjoy your buggy (if you end up buying it).
Bud

[lastmanx]

A 1972 will have a ball joint front axle and a IRS (4 joint ) transaxle. The 1972 transaxle will have 2 cv boots per side with grease in them. if it has only 1 boot per side it is not a 1972. I mention this because the trans should not have a leak. The1 boot on earlier trans have oil in them that can leak; but are an easy fix. if the oil leak is at the engine and trans mating surfaces you need to check that it is thick smelly gear oil or thin engine oil. either is a problem. the trans has a seal at its shaft that requires the engine removal. if it is motor oil it is the main oil seal behind the flywheel also requiring engine removal with more work removing the clutch and flywheel. if the buggy has a kingpin front axle;or a swingaxle (one boot) transaxle it is not a 1972 :as neither will fit a 1972. Just so you know. the steering coupler needs to be replaced immediately. It is a 4 dollar part. Don't replace with a red heavy duty urethane coupler as they are weaker and brittle. But if the buggy runs, drives well buy it. I mentioned the axle stuff so you don't get ripped off. use the knowledge for price haggling, and knowledge that if the year of buggy is misrepresented what else? The Manx certification is proof it is a real Manx.

[Esavetsky]

Thanks RZeller and LastManx, I did purchase the buggy and will join the club. The buggy drives great, but the Empi stinger exhaust is a bit loud. I'm considering either putting a U-bend collector and muffler on, or if a better choice a Sidewinder exhaust. The only other immediate thing other than the very slight oil leak is the drum brakes. They are not great. I may try to clean them up, check the pads, etc., perhaps swap the pistons front to back if that hasn't be done already, and see if I can improve their performance before considering a disc brake conversion. I will also ensure that the suspension is functioning well, moving freely, and well sprung but compliant. Really looking forward to tweaking what is already a great ride. The 72 pan is in excellent condition with little to no rust. Oh, and she had a voltage leak which I need to chase down. The owner before the seller had a very nicely done custom stereo box made for the back seat with receiver and Alpine speakers, but the receiver won't power up, so I'll be chasing that down too.

[lastmanx]

nicely done and welcome to the club. I like drum brakes, they don't get brake dust all over your rims, and easily adjust. I will assume you have some knowledge of VW. I have the bigger front brake cylinders on my front and back they work great. I suggest you adjust your brake shoes for now. I suggest you just drive the buggy changing nothing till this season is over. bring a pen and paper with you as you drive to make notes of what you need to fix in the future. you will have all winter to work on it. the amplifier is probably your voltage leak. look there first. it may also be too powerful for a generater/alternator, thus draining power as you drive. a high output alternater may be the fix. living in Ma. we get rain. if you plan to put a top on it winter is a good time to have one made. boat top makers are the ones to talk to. have fun and keep smiling. I have written many articles directed towards the newbie, look in to them if that applies to you.

[manxvair]

The buggy looks great and should be loads of fun. Do you have pictures of the engine and transmission area?