I used the inexpensice ($165) 3" lift that is the lightweight 'C' channel and cut it to fit my buggy pan length. I then used beefed up grade-8 bolts and ran them through 3/4" x 3/4" square aluminium tubing that I cut and fit inside the 'C' channel at each bolt hole. That way, when I torqued down on the bolts that run through to the pan, I wouldn't crush the lift. Seems to have worked well so far. Have run it this way for about a year with no troubles. Just have to re-torque the bolts every now and then (especially after running hard off-road). :rock:
If you have an engine hoist this would probably be the easyest way to do it. But if you don't then use a coupld of straps from the inside and put them over your shulder and lift. I've done it this way a cople of times. but by far the easyest way is to get 2 other guys to help you out. one other would make it tons easyer. It's worth the cost of a pizza for the help.
Once you find the balance point and if the body is made strong enough, you can stand inside the body and grab the sides at the balance point and pick it up and carry it. Gloves make it a bit easier on the hands.
A small block and tackle will do it well. Attach the block and tackle to the rafters, tie a rope to all four corners of the buggy and heave away. The body is so light that it won't pull the roof down on you.
I took 2-2X4's and attached 1" vinyl straps to each end. I robbed the flat hooks off some luggage straps ( like whats used to hold a car carrier to the drip rail of a car). I secured a chain to the center of each 2X4 and connected the chain to either a come-along or a chain hoist. the flat hooks fit well under each fender. I had to do something as I was taking the body back off constanty during my rebuild. Also this helped when wiring the buggy as I could lower the body close to the chassis but still has room to work. ( Thats a wiring diagram taped to the rear...)