Manx Club

I am thinking something along these lines for a camper to tow behind my buggy:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaym...me=ADME:B:EF:MOTORS:1123

It looks like it would be light enough and it fits the period look. Plus two adults might actually fit in it. (I am 6'3") I have seen a few for sale under $1000. I just have to figure out how to make a removable trailer hitch since I wont be running a rear bumper.

--louis

That's pretty cool. Nice and light weight and would sleep a family of 4 while the kids are still young.  

I was looking at something like this but your'e really limited to two:
http://www.golittleguy.com/teardrops/models/rascal

This guy was pulling this mini canned ham at the last FL Bug Jam. I like it but I think the pop up would be more flexible. take a screen room and do your cooking on a portable gas stove. He built it himself using a HF trailer kit. A good friend of mine is thinking of building one as well.



--louis

he built that himself? That's impressive. HF = Harbor Freight?

For me personally I would limit my trailer to 800lb max and a toung weight for no more than 200lb. Electric brakes would be a must (not the surge kind). I would also want mirrors that would allow me to see around the trailer. Gene Condon has some experience with towing a camping trailer behind Gadget, he would be a good one to ask.
Bob

73SpeedBuggy wrote:he built that himself? That's impressive. HF = Harbor Freight?

Yeah he built it himself. You can find instructions on the net for them. Most call for aluminum or steel siding, but you can use wood. His is actually the siding from a mobile home that was being torn down. HF = Harbor Freight.

Here is the one a friend of mine is thinking of building: Link

--louis

louisb wrote:

73SpeedBuggy wrote:he built that himself? That's impressive. HF = Harbor Freight?

Yeah he built it himself. You can find instructions on the net for them. Most call for aluminum or steel siding, but you can use wood. His is actually the siding from a mobile home that was being torn down. HF = Harbor Freight.

Here is the one a friend of mine is thinking of building: Link

--louis

You just had to go and share that link didn't you?!  All I need is another project.  The ideas are already spinning around in my head!

I just ran across this little teardrop called a Falcon Sleeper made in France.



They show it being pulled by a BMW Iseta (SP?) so surely a buggy could pull one. Unlike a traditional tear drop, it doesn't have a kitchenette but the back swings up to allow access to the sleeping area. I wonder if you could build something like that out of aluminum and still have it light enough to pull behind a buggy.

--louis

Here is one that uses the HF trailer and only weighs 650lbs w/ a 65lb tongue weight.

http://www.tintop-teardrop.com/photos.html



--louis

I guess the big question is how much can it cost to build a teardrop like one of these.  I sure don't need another project either but I can always plan ahead. 

I think it depends on how fancy you want it. I have seen complete ones for sale for $5000 - $8000. The guy in my last post who sells the plans said he had $2000 in his. If you could source most of the parts cheap, like using siding from an old trailer I think you could do it for less than $1000. I need another project like I need a hole in the head. (And my wife may put one there if I bring one home.) But wouldn't it be cool to roll into Big Bear with one behind your buggy? Humm



--louis

Just keep in mind the shortened wheel base on the buggy, and the weight ratio between the buggy and the trailer. They do create issues when towing. Ask Gene about his adventures in towing a teardrop with his buggy. You might be better off with the pop-up.

 I love this topic
and I love my teardrop
But you need to really think a few things out first
1. Tow ball set up  the buggy
  You need alot more than just your simple cage with a few bolts holding it together
2. Tongue weight 
   You need to evaluate your torsion bars
   Everyone thinks about the buggy empty and the trailer empty but when you add all your gear,  ice chests, chairs etc
   its a little different. You'll know when it steers real easy from the front tires being in the air.
   Buggy's are light in the front so you need to think about how you load it
   I had to really think about it especailly the trailer keeping every thing to the rear over the tires
3. BRAKES!!!!!
    Do not consider this with out electric brakes or break actuated trailer hitch
    I spent my entire 600 mile trip thinking about how to stop
    I still remember day dreaming and then realizing I had a red light ahead
   and pushing my break pedal through the floor as I slid through the intersection
 4 Wind
     Yuck!!
      a buggy with a trailer in a cross wind
      Crossing the bridges here in the bay area is probably my biggest pucker factor



 

Hi Gene,



You make some good points. I have already upgraded my buggy to 4 wheel discs and would use 'lectric assist on the tear drop. I am also having Danny Gabard at GabFab make up a sturdier rear trans cradle to tie the rear engine cage into. The rear engine cage will be 1.5 x .125 tubing and should be strong enough to mount the hitch to as well. Right now I am trying to dream up a hitch assembly that would be removable so I don't have the ball hanging off the back end when not pulling the trailer. I probably will need to change the torsions, but it will have to wait. I have a set of 21mm now but a 24mm set are on the wish list. I think the 1967 will have enough grunt to pull it but I need to think about the light front end issue. Maybe add some lead weights to the front when I am towing.



Thanks,



--louis

Instead of extra weight, which would add problems of it's own, just be sure the tongue weight is light enough that it doesn't push the front of the buggy up, and heavy enough so the trailer tracks well (the art of loading a trailer - I think it's 60% forward, 40% rear or something like that).