First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Loretta

How-to building, restoration, repairs, and fun with your authentic Manx!
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abgiles
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Location: Yulee, FL

Re: First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Lorett

Post by abgiles »

Excellent explanation, and love the visual aids. It certainly helps those of us inexperienced buggista's see what is happening. It certainly has been annoying to hit a bump and hear the trailing arm hitting that metal/fiberglass patch panel each and every time.

As far as the chassis flex, it certainly was horrible. I've ridden in a number of them, and driving Loretta down a flat road, no issue, but turns and bumps have been horrible. Can't wait to see how she drives when she's all complete!
(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis that has been "Wheelerized" by Joescoolcustoms
(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
(Gunther) Manx 2 # A0202A035E
Tow'dster # TF530G913S
Original Home built buggy that I learned to drive in back in 1995 (the one that started my passion).
Club Member # 4436

Loretta: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... t=3365Manx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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joescoolcustoms
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Location: Saint Albans, WV

Re: First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Lorett

Post by joescoolcustoms »

Since my steel order has been delayed until Monday, I have been working on cleaning the chassis and fixing little detail items.

Upon inspection, I found the clutch cable tube completely broken loose. The only thing holding it was the non-welded clip around the fuel tube, and it too was broken in two of the three mounting spots as was the accelerator tube.

Here you can see the tubes loose on the rear.

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Here you can see where I pushed it up in the tunnel freely.

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So, a access hole has to be cut in the front to properly weld the front attachment point.

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Then weld it.

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Then re-weld the cut section back in the tunnel.

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When the tunnel is painted and Bed-Lined, this repair will not be seen and look smooth and clean.

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Since the tunnel was badly cracked at the E-Brake area, and Brian stated the E-Brake did not function very well, the best way to repair this was to cut out the bad and replace it. Cut below the cracks so they would not propagate.

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This also allows access to the broken tube mounts so they can be welded.

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In addition to the E-Brake being cracked and flexing when the E-Brake was applied, the builder cut the E-Brake tubes and used cable splices to shorten the cables. I did this on the very first buggy I built. I did not like it because it allows for some additional flexing. A solid tube gives the best service and use. Here is a little better explanation of what it was.

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I save as much as I can when hacking up old Beetles and other buggy pans. When I get a chassis that does not have a title with it, it becomes spare parts for other buggy's. This section came off of the Fraken Manx chassis. It also had the full length E-Brake cable tubes.

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So, the interior of the tunnel was cleaned as best possible, tubes properly welded in place, coated with ruberized undercoating and the section fitted then welded in place. Note that in fitting this section in, I crossed the original shortening butt weld section to give a Zig-Zag pattern for additional strength. Also, the grafted section retained the original blind seat belt nuts so Brian will have a solid seat belt mounting system.

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joescoolcustoms
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Re: First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Lorett

Post by joescoolcustoms »

As I stated before, this chassis will get a 14 gauges thick steel flat floor for better seat mounting and further back for optimum leg room. The inside rear of the VW tunnel has a rising pinch weld that makes it harder to make a flat floor. On the inside of the tunnel, in the rear shift rod coupler access hole, I weld in 11 gauges thick flat steel strap across the pinch weld to tie in the top section of the tunnel to the bottom section.

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On the outside, I cut the pinch weld off from where it starts to rise at the shortening butt weld to behind the rear firewall vertical area. Then weld that seam into the inside steel strapping put in earlier.

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After grinding the weld flush, a Piece of 11 gauges thick steel strapping is shaped to the curvature of the tunnel and welded in from underneath to re-create the pinch weld ledge for the flat floor to sit on and weld too.

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Some smoothing with the grinder with a flapper sanding wheel and the tunnel will be ready for sandblasting. The pinch weld ledge has been cleaned of the spot welds and rust so it is ready for the floor to weld to it. Now all I need is the 2 X 3 rectangular tubing to continue on with the chassis.
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abgiles
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Location: Yulee, FL

Re: First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Lorett

Post by abgiles »

Wow! Looking so much cleaner. Learning quite a bit on what to look for in the future. I never realized how hacked up she was.
(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis that has been "Wheelerized" by Joescoolcustoms
(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
(Gunther) Manx 2 # A0202A035E
Tow'dster # TF530G913S
Original Home built buggy that I learned to drive in back in 1995 (the one that started my passion).
Club Member # 4436

Loretta: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... t=3365Manx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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joescoolcustoms
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Location: Saint Albans, WV

Re: First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Lorett

Post by joescoolcustoms »

The steel finally arrived at the plant, but I still had to wait almost 2 hours for them to find all the pieces I ordered.

So, I got a good start on making the basic outside frame rails for the chassis. 2 X 3 rectangular tubing, 0.120 wall. I make relief cuts on the inside of the tubing, use a ratchet binder to slowly pull the curve right in on the contour I want to match the body with, then weld it while the ratchet binder holds it in place.

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Finish welding the relief cuts and grind smooth. Then some test fitting with the body so the end cut can be established and start fitting them in.

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Here you can see underneath at the lift height. The open space will be custom fitted for a nice weather tight fit.

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And, here is the money shot, the trailing arms fit with just enough security clearance under the wells.

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abgiles
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Re: First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Lorett

Post by abgiles »

Yay! No more thumps when I hit a bump!
(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis that has been "Wheelerized" by Joescoolcustoms
(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
(Gunther) Manx 2 # A0202A035E
Tow'dster # TF530G913S
Original Home built buggy that I learned to drive in back in 1995 (the one that started my passion).
Club Member # 4436

Loretta: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... t=3365Manx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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manxvair
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Re: First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Lorett

Post by manxvair »

Now the thumps will come from the stereo speakers, cause "it's all about the bass!"
vwmanx
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Re: First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Lorett

Post by vwmanx »

Things that go Bump in the night...WOOT!
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abgiles
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Re: First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Lorett

Post by abgiles »

manxvair wrote:Now the thumps will come from the stereo speakers, cause "it's all about the bass!"
Not quite sure about that one! I'd been debating even putting in a stereo, but I know I will. This one won't thump though. Of course, I could build me a big box with about 6 10's in it instead of a back seat, and throw some 24" spinners for wheels.... I think I'm actually going to puke in my mouth just thinking of that...
(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis that has been "Wheelerized" by Joescoolcustoms
(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
(Gunther) Manx 2 # A0202A035E
Tow'dster # TF530G913S
Original Home built buggy that I learned to drive in back in 1995 (the one that started my passion).
Club Member # 4436

Loretta: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... t=3365Manx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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abgiles
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Location: Yulee, FL

Re: First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Lorett

Post by abgiles »

On another note, I received my Sombrero Top from TJKustoms! This is the one I won at MOTB. Looks like it's very well built, and I can't wait to get to that point in the process. It will be the finishing touch. I'm going to be getting a Difference and custom mats made as well, but will have to do that after I get the parts that are vital to her first.

I also got a hot lead from a friend in work about a VW shop that is relatively close to me that is small, does great work, and has been in business for years and years. Got a quote to have a dp block purchased, bored, case savers installed, and full flowed for an excellent price, so I'm strongly considering going ahead and building a 1776 for her. Gotta do some more research to see what else I'd need compared to the parts I have on hand or in her original motor.
(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis that has been "Wheelerized" by Joescoolcustoms
(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
(Gunther) Manx 2 # A0202A035E
Tow'dster # TF530G913S
Original Home built buggy that I learned to drive in back in 1995 (the one that started my passion).
Club Member # 4436

Loretta: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... t=3365Manx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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rzeller
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Re: First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Lorett

Post by rzeller »

abgiles wrote:On another note, I received my Sombrero Top from TJKustoms! This is the one I won at MOTB. Looks like it's very well built, and I can't wait to get to that point in the process. It will be the finishing touch. I'm going to be getting a Difference and custom mats made as well, but will have to do that after I get the parts that are vital to her first.

I also got a hot lead from a friend in work about a VW shop that is relatively close to me that is small, does great work, and has been in business for years and years. Got a quote to have a dp block purchased, bored, case savers installed, and full flowed for an excellent price, so I'm strongly considering going ahead and building a 1776 for her. Gotta do some more research to see what else I'd need compared to the parts I have on hand or in her original motor.
Brian, you are getting Tom to make the mats for you? Do you have any info on them and/or pictures?

As for the motor: I was going down the same path as you in piecing out a motor (1776). By the time I did that I realized that I should consider a long block purchase. I got a recommendation from our WV buddy Joe for a build from Keith's Auto Parts, specifically Vic Dawson. I was pleasantly surprised at the cost. I can't comment yet on the motor as it hasn't been put in my buggy. Just something you might want to talk to Joe about.

Bud
Bud Zeller
Wilmington, NC
Manx Club Member Since 2004 - #2475
Member of the Manx Club's Long Haul League - 2015
2018 NORRA Mexican 1000 - #1356 - Bad News Racing
2022 NORRA Mexican 1000 - #3347 - Bad News Racing & ACME Companies
2023 NORRA Mexican 1000 - #1356 - Bad News Racing
'68 Meyers Manx - M1996F826S
'66 VW Kombi Bus
'73 VW Thing
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joescoolcustoms
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Re: First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Lorett

Post by joescoolcustoms »

Bud, the floor mats that Tom makes are really nice. He made me a custom set based off of a paper pattern I sent to him. This is not a "wall-to-wall" carpet, but two separate mats for your foot area. I do not have any pictures, but will be pulling the Puzzle Manx out of the trailer tomorrow do to selling a car and needing to deliver it in the trailer. I will take pictures and post for you tomorrow.

I really like Tom's products. Every one I have receive has been top quality.
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joescoolcustoms
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Re: First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Lorett

Post by joescoolcustoms »

I small update on progress. Does not look like much, but was a time consuming detail that makes a custom chassis a little nicer.

One thing I do not like seeing on a tube chassis side rails is a bunch of bolts hanging down below the side rail. The way Berrien does the sunken bolt holes is a very nice touch, but takes time to make it look nice.

First thing is to make the sunken pockets. Start with 1 5/8, 0.120 wall tubing and cut them to 1 1/4 inch lengths. Use a metal lathe to ensure perfectly square ends.

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Weld 10 gauges thick washers to one end of the short tubing stubs.

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Use the metal lathe to trim the slight weld off to get a smooth side pocket. Paint both inside and out side of the pocket so they will not rust up inside of the side rails.

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Measure about 7 times to ensure proper placement of bolts in body/roll cage bottom plate/ side rails so nothing interferes later as the roll cage and bolt on nerf bars are made. Then drill 1 3/4 inch diameter holes in the side rails bottom. I use a 1 /3/4 hole so when the pocket is placed in it, a small open void is available to ensure proper penetration of the weld.

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Then using weld magnets, "hang" the pocket flush on the side rail in the drilled hole and weld the pocket.

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In having the small void to weld, the difference of the two diameters of the drilled hole ID and the pocket OD, not only gives proper penetration, but gives a almost flush final weld with little cleanup needed.

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Using the newly placed pocket as a drill guide, finish drilling the top side bolt hole to get a perfectly vertical and centered side rail bolt hole.

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Almost ready to install on the chassis. Three blind threaded collars will get welded in flush to provide the three per side needed mounting points on the bottom for the Meyers Manx Nerf Bars. This way Brian can remove them very easily when he wants to go bare.

Image
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rzeller
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Re: First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Lorett

Post by rzeller »

joescoolcustoms wrote:Bud, the floor mats that Tom makes are really nice. He made me a custom set based off of a paper pattern I sent to him. This is not a "wall-to-wall" carpet, but two separate mats for your foot area. I do not have any pictures, but will be pulling the Puzzle Manx out of the trailer tomorrow do to selling a car and needing to deliver it in the trailer. I will take pictures and post for you tomorrow.

I really like Tom's products. Every one I have receive has been top quality.

Joe, thanks. I'm not looking for a carpet kit. I've always only had mats (usually the EMPI rubber ones) in my buggy and beetles (back in the day). Easier to clean and in the case of the buggy, dry underneath when caught in the rain or after washing.

Bud
Bud Zeller
Wilmington, NC
Manx Club Member Since 2004 - #2475
Member of the Manx Club's Long Haul League - 2015
2018 NORRA Mexican 1000 - #1356 - Bad News Racing
2022 NORRA Mexican 1000 - #3347 - Bad News Racing & ACME Companies
2023 NORRA Mexican 1000 - #1356 - Bad News Racing
'68 Meyers Manx - M1996F826S
'66 VW Kombi Bus
'73 VW Thing
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abgiles
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Re: First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Lorett

Post by abgiles »

Bud,
For the floor mats, I'll be doing the same thing. I thought I had taken a picture of Joe's at MOTB, or had seen one posted, but haven't found either. I'll be making some patterns to send to Tom, and order everything (mats and difference) at the same time. This is my first experience with Tom, but I've read tons of positive feedback, and since he supports the club and MOTB, I figured he'd be the perfect guy for it!

As far as the motor goes, I certainly appreciate the tip. I'm going to do that motor that's in Loretta myself for now, and see about that in the future. I'm determined to rebuild a motor myself sometime, since I've never even attempted it. I've always wanted to build one, and since the majority of the build has been farmed out, I want to be able to put my name somewhere on the build sheet.

Joe, this kind of work is exactly why I want to have you do the chassis. My inexperience will change one day, for the other buggy I'll eventually build myself. I'm not a Manx snob, but didn't want to "practice" on a real Manx. The other buggy that I have behind the house is my future build. I'll be taking a lot of your ideas and trying to replicate them. If it turns out half as nice as any of your builds, I'll be extremely happy!
(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis that has been "Wheelerized" by Joescoolcustoms
(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
(Gunther) Manx 2 # A0202A035E
Tow'dster # TF530G913S
Original Home built buggy that I learned to drive in back in 1995 (the one that started my passion).
Club Member # 4436

Loretta: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... t=3365Manx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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